It is possible to function without the #1 and #2 terminals used IF it has the proper aftermarket voltage regulator installed. Unless you know the complete history of the alternator, WHO KNOWS what's in there for a regulator, as there are MANY aftermarket units, usually not clearly identified, even with the regulator in out of the alternator. Try this: check the voltage at the large stud with the engine at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. If the alternator is charging, you will get 13.5 volts to 14.75 volts. If the alternator is NOT charging, you will get 12.5 volts, or less. If it is NOT charging, shut down the engine, and connect a jumper wire from the #2 terminal (voltage sense) to the output stud of the alternator. Connect another jumper wire to the #1 (excite) terminal, and leave the other end free. Start the engine, and rev it up a bit, as before. (CAREFUL OF THE FAN AND OTHER MOVING PARTS!!!) Now, momentarily touch the free end of the test lead dangling from #1 to the large output stud. This should excite the alternator, and the voltage should come up to the range previously mentioned. If the alternator works now, install a permanent jumper from #2 to the large output stud, and connect a wire from a switched 12 Volt source to the #1 terminal. If you stop here, the engine probably won't shut off due to the alternator backfeeding through the wire to #1. To prevent this, use and "idiot light" with a small bulb such as a 194 spliced into the lead to #1, or obtain a 2.5 amp 1000PIV diode (Radio Shack), and splice it into the wire instead of the idiot light. Toward one end of the plastic body of the diode, there will be a white band printed around the diode. This indentifies the CATHODE END of the diode, which is the end you connect to the wire going to the #1 terminal on the alternator.
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