Synthetic lubricants

If you have done so, what results have you seen?

When I switched to all Mobil 1 lubricants 15 years ago, I did so because I wanted the benefits of less wear during dry starts and the protection against high heat damage. Sure, I got those, but I also got these...

1) Minimum 5% increase in fuel mileage (OTR vehicles)
2) Engines remain far cleaner
3) Transfer cases less noisy
4) Differentials less noisy
5) The grease is waterproof so chassis lubes are required less frequently.
6) Block heater use no longer required no matter how cold it gets.

Before Mobil 1, the T/FD on my Oliver 1650G was reluctant to shift when cold (like way below zero cold). It would free up after it warmed up but by that time I was done plowing and it was back in the barn. After Mobil 1, the dead cold T/FD shifts in the coldest weather just like it does when the weather is hot. (75W-90 gear lube).

I have experienced zero parts failures and zero leaks.

I saved the best for last. My 1650G has over 10K hours on it, it's never had a wrench on it, and both compression and vacuum are perfect. I figure it's good for another 10K hours if I live that long!

I started in 1976 with Amsoil in Nebraska. In the winter engines start easy. Now, in Arizona in the summer heat I don't worry.

I use them because they keep working when you forget to change the oil and/or filter. AND when conditions get horrid. I have lots of examples from my experiences on my own engines and from an industrial plant. Even my swamp coolers get synthetic oil. 25 years on the same shaft bearings.

My worst case story was on my home built rubbish grinder. This machine has an eight horse briggs engine on it with aluminum bore and piston. I was grinding up a bunch of tree branches etc one day and started smelling something burning. Didn't think to much about it because sometimes chunks get stuck beside the impeller and just burn their way out. The engine is belted 1:1 with the flail impeller and runs 3600 all the time. Well, you stand on one side and feed the hopper and the engine is on the other side. In this instance the air screen on the flywheel was covered with leaves and debris. After a bit the smell mentioned above started smelling like plastic. By the time I figured out the smell was NOT coming from out the discharge chute the paint on the crankcase of the 8HP briggs was smoking. That was what the plastic smell was. I immediately shut it down and cleaned the air screen. I just knew the piston had to be scuffed. I took the head off and looked at the cylinder and the hone marks were still like the day I put them in it. Drained the oil and put in new, (new being relative, all the air cooled engines get the drained oil from the cars) and fired it up and it was OK. That was probably 9 years ago and it is still ready to grind and chop for me.

I went to look at a Ford being sold by the original owner who happens to be an investigator for the state securities division. One of his selling points is that the truck has always had synthetic oil in it. He says he became converted to synthetic years ago when he was working in the division of consumer protection. They were investigating a company that was selling used engines and misrepresenting how many miles were on them. In the course of the investigation they called in some "experts" who claimed that they could tell how many miles an engine had on it by tearing it down and measuring the wear in various areas, etc. The one exception was that they could not determine miles on a used engine using synthetic oils because they did not wear.

2610 Long tractor and the new Farmtrac 80 I use 15w-40 Heavy duty marine syn oil in both. Change oil in those once every 12 months. I ran the Farmtrac 50 hours on what came in it and switched over at 50 hours. I use the Amsoil grease, gear oils and auto tranny fluids too. Also have switched both tractors over to the syn. Hy-trans.

It saves me money and has cured some problems. I've had nothing but success with it.

I became a dealer so I could order my own when I need it. I've never sold retail. Just for my own use.

I am an Amsoil dealer too, it has made a believer out of me.

I got on to Amsoil while working in a textile mill back in the late 80's. I was a mech/ele. tech and was working on automated sewing equipment. Had some Union Specials overlock machines that we were turning at 5,000 rpm continuos run. Needless to say they were not designed to run continuos or at that rpm either. Had to run needle coolers on the needles if that tells you how fast they were running.(LOL) Several times a week I would have to pull one of those sewing heads down for a rebuild. They would get so hot you could see oil vapor from heat coming out the top vent. So I got some vendors in to see what they had to cure my problem. Couldn't use Amsoil at the time because they didn't have a clear oil at that time. But the jobber did point me to another guy that was supplying syn. oil for sewing down in NC. Outfit was named General Enterprise. After talking to the guy he mailed me several samples and told me how he would like me to do a test with it. Once I had the oil I checked the temperature of one sewing head while it was running. It was 191 f. I stopped the machine and drained the oil and put in the sample syn. white oil which was a blend. I started that machine back up and after 3 hours I checked the temperature again. It was 128 F. After testing the oil for 3 months and keeping track of rebuild on the cranks it was no problem to see we were on to something that was going to save us a lot of down time,parts and repair work. Switched everything over and we were making money then. Even did an upgrade with some Wilcox & Gibbs and ran those at 6,000 rpm. Had to run silicon and air on the thread on those to keep the thread from melting because those needles were moving so fast.

The Amsoil guy came back to visit and I started buying 100% syn oil since that day. Look in your Amsoil flyer and you will see his name from time to time. He's Jerry Reid from the Richmond Va. area. He moves a lot of oil and I've always been glad to have had the chance to listen to him. He knows his oil.

The syn. hydraulic/trans oil in my Long 2610 fixed a problem with a Fasse double remote valve I added to the tractor. It has two 12 volt coils and after haying in the spring I didn't use one side of it until the next year. Each year I had to take that valve apart and break the spool loose. It would have a little rust in the spool sleeve, just enough to keep it from shifting. Once I changed it over the valve has work OK since.

The Farmtrac had a bad case of break chatter(wet brakes). Switched that over at 50 hours and no more chatter.

I split wood here with the Long and since I change it over I don't have to wait for the hydraulic oil to warm up to get that splitter going. It flows. I also feed (unroll round bales) with that tractor. That hydraulic motor turns good at 0 deg. without sitting around warming up now.

I'll add to, that little mini van still has the same CV joints from the factory. I've used a needle on the grease gun and give it a few shots per year through the rubber. Then seal the needle hole with some RTV. Sorry I got long winded here. Nice to meet another dealer on a farm/tractor site. You're the first one.

I know and understand why folks are shy to changing to syn. but they are changing faster in the last 2-3 years than I've seen. The semi syn oil on the store shelves has confused folks on the extended drain thing. Friction modifiers is one key and the filtration is the other. Air and oil. The stuff does what it says.

Nice to meat you and have a great day. Raleigh

Engines; 1. Never have "dry bearing rumble" at first startup after oil change anymore. (Fill filter always prior to installation).

2. Doubled engine oil change interval on OTR vehicles.

3. Diesel piston skirt slap at cold start in winter disappeared.

Dodge truck tranny.
Thought I was going to be victimized by the so called bad Dodge auto. Was doing a couple of things I didn't like; stayed in gear too long (no modulator valve), wouldn't shift into 4th when first getting on highway in winter. Put in Mobil 1 ATF and tweaked the bands. Really nice, smooth, and shift point is where it belongs; 35 into OD on a smooth road with light pedal.

Diff too, but don't know how to gauge.

For cost of the stuff, wally world has dropped Mobil 1 15w-50 to $4.04/qt and it has been cert for CH service. The Dodge tranny alone would have cost $1750. How much oil can you buy with that?

Mark

I'm slowly moving to all synthetic because of its ability to withstand high temperatures. Would seem to be a natural for air cooled engines.

I have not seen things like increases in leaks that some have warned againist.

The reason not all cars come with synthetic in the engine is COST - most manufacturers are worried about the car lasting through warranty - usually 3 years 36,000 miles. The Corvette is a premium car at a premium price - should have a premium oil in it to match. In a somewhat clean enviroment most cars can last that without a single oil change just using good old dino 10W30. If you're only planning on keeping your car 100K or so - you're wasting money on synthetics in most automotive applications. Hardly going to add any value to your trade in.

Jet

Mark