Bob4knee

Those old F-10s are big, ugly, cumbersome and yes, even a little awkward. But to me, they are probably one of the best loaders ever built; especially if you have the later "squared & boxed" type (see picture below). They’ll lift something like 2 tons to 27 feet in the air; now, that’s a loader!!

The nice part about that loader is that all the weight of the loader and the weight of that heavy mount is concentrated on the rear axle of the tractor; and they are heavy! I had a wide F-10 on a 60 JD with fluid filled rears and could not stop it, try as I may. But, like you, that was when I was down on the flat land.

I’m not even sure you’re gonna need chains, but if you think you do, get the “X’d” type. Those straight-laced type are worthless on a tractor tire as the rungs just pull down into the lugs, especially with new tires.

I got mine from www.tirechain.com . They are fairly reasonable and ship to your door.

I guess if it was me tho, I'd try 'er without the chains first. Can't imagine a M living under a F-10 needing chains, especially if you are on the flat.

Hope this helps,

Allan

I pulled into the barnyard the other night and almost ran over a set of big-ole honkin' chains. A friend of mine was at an auction, and got them for me for 12 bucks! They may be a hair short, and are a little narrower than I would get if I was buying them new, but that's 1/20th of what a new set would cost. These have big huge links on the tread, in an X patter (so they'll stay up out of the lugs).

I almost got the tractor back together last weekend, still need to put the plug in the bottom and fill it w/ coolant before I can start it again. I'll do that and try them this weekend.

Thanks again,

bob

That looks pretty much like what I've got. I just have a cable to pull up on the bucket, it looks like there might me something else in your picture. The rear looks the same.

I'd rather not fill the tires if I can get away with it. I have gotten the rear tires spinning (without snow) before trying to move (packed/old, grass growing on it) dirt. I figure I'd rather get the chains and not need them than need them and not have them.

I'm assuming they just go on the rear? (no clearance up front anyway).

That loader does go up awfully high. I blew a hydraulic line a couple of weeks ago lifting the loader way high, then thinking it was coming down a little quick and trying to stop it. Ooops. I guess better then than when I really needed the tractor.

thanks for the reply,

Bob

Just a couple of notes:

The F-10 used a cylinder-actuated cable for many years and they work just fine. The later models had 'tilt' cylinders out at the horns; I never was lucky enough to own one of those, though.

You want to make sure your cable is in good repair, if it is starting to fray, replace it. They are not that expensive and are really easy to change out. They usually last for many, many years, though. The cylinder that operates the cable lives inside that right support arm. Also, keep all the pivot pins in both box frames & the pulleys in that upper rear box frame greased too.

You will also have hydraulics for a grapple or push-off attachment, those are the two hydraulic connections piped down to the horns on the inside of the left support arm and controlled by the extra control lever separate from your rotary control.

See that little horizontal 4" lever there with your controls? That is for lowering those heavy loads. It "bleeds" off the pressure slowly and let's 'er down easy. With a real heavy load up high, you want to use this little lever just for safety's sake.

You've really got a great loader and I'd trade my little toy F-11 to you in a heartbeat. :>)

Yes, put the chains on the rear only,

Allan

As far as chains go, yes they are necessary in the toughest conditons but a M is a very well balanced tractor for an F10 and has good traction in most conditions.

As mentioned, watch your cable for becoming frayed. Also inspect the loader for cracks while you are going over it greasing the cable pulleys and pivot points. You can head off having to make larger repairs or more serious safety issues by making timely welding repairs.

I have a grapple I'd like to get working, it was not plumbed up, just bolted to the loader. I oiled up the piston, unbolted it, and set it in the barn. That'll be a spring project, and then I'll use it for moving brush piles.

When I bought the tractor, we wondered what that little lever did. I remember, in later conversations, the previous owner mentioned something about using it to let things down slow. I remembered it about the time my hydraulic-oil shower started. I'll try that next time.... (At least the tractor isn't going to rust for awhile)

Thanks for the help on the chains, I'll probably get the style you recommended from tirechains.com

Thanks again,

Bob