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Well, a freeze plug could be an additional problem since your post to me indicates overheating - pressure builds up and wants to go somewhere else. But generally speaking, the pressure required to force a freeze plug would be considerably higher than it would be to blow a hose, radiator cap, etc. Don't bet on a freeze plug. If is overheating, I'd look elsewhere like a head gasket, otherwise would be overheating through the cap or radiator overflow. But you said are finding antifreeze around the cylinder head. What's your exhaust look like? Seeing antifreeze out the tailpipe? Leaking intake manifold gaskets don't produce overheating, since intake is a cooler part of the motor and creates a vacuum. There are things to be aware of when replacing intake manifold gaskets. First off, if is an intake leak, the gaskets are scrap once oily filmed antifreeze gets between the heads and the manifold. At that point, can't just tighten them to get a good seal. The pressure it'd take to do that would crack or break the manifold bolt boss tabs. The gaskets are scrap. The distributor will need to come out, and you'll have to mark the placement of the distributor in relation to the manifold, and the rotor in relation to the distributor - the distributor is driven by a gear on the back of the cam, and whatever teeth were intermeshed when comes out, have to be intermeshed when goes back in. Also, the distributor drives a rod that drives the oil pump in all BB and SB Chevy's, so be careful to not un-align when pulling the ditributor, and line up when putting back in - or no oil, motor gets scrapped after blow it up. The rest of it is simple mechanicals. Remove hoses, wires, fuel lines, etc. Tag them as remove.
Unbolt the manifold, take it off. Scrape (don't gouge) the surfaces, put it back on with new gaskets. Not sure about No. 2 Permatex with those motors. Some new gaskets don't require sealer, and specify not to use it. Put it back together in reverse order. I don't recall there being a torque sequence on manifold bolts, but I always snugged from the inside bolts on one side, cross over to the other side, and keep crossing back and forth working outward. Then go back and begin torquing 1/2 specifications in same sequence, then full specifications, same sequence. Then retorque, same sequence. Do it that way, and won't crack or break those bolt bosses - are very fragile. But, intake manifold gaskets don't typically cause overheating. From what you've posted, you may have a head gasket problem. In any event, the intake manifold would have to come off to get to the heads (gaskets). If I were you, I'd pick up a Chiltons or Haynes. They'll tell you how, and give torque specs. Don't force the ditributor in - the teeth and oil pump drive shaft will line up, or you'll be off a tooth or so - pull it, advance or retard it, try it again, again, again. Change the oil, time the engine.
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