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JD B

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Will S

12-17-2004 06:46:52

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We bought this 1948 John Deere B at a farm sale.It has been converted to a distributor and alternator setup. Very few wires are connected.It appears to be Negative ground. Does the positive cable going to yhe starter also has a wire going to the switch? The wire coming out of the switch appears to go to the plus side of the coil. The wire from the negative side of the coil is connected to side tern=minal of the distributor. The Delco-Remy Alternator has a short wire from the plug at bottom connected to the terminal a the back side, and then a wire goes to the left back side of the ammeter. Another wire (white) connects to the other terminal under the alternator and goes to the right back side of the ammeter.
My questions are: Should I get a spark at the distributor points with this setup? Should I have a test light showing at the negative post of the coil? How do I connect the Alternator/Ammeter setup up to the battery, so it can charge?

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Bob

12-17-2004 07:07:36

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Re: JD B in reply to Will S, 12-17-2004 06:46:52

There's a fellow over at the Farmall Board who has drawn up good 12 Volt conversion diagrams for Farmalls, and here's a link to one of his that will work equally well on your Green Machine.

If you have a TRUE 12 VOLT COIL, you don't need the resistor shown in the power lead to the coil.

BobM's diagrams

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Mike M

12-17-2004 09:34:49

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Re: JD B in reply to Bob, 12-17-2004 07:07:36

I see that diagram has a warning light in the circuit that must be going to energize the alt. Does this light bulb act the same as a diode to keep voltage from comeing back letting the engine still run when you shut off the switch ? Or do you still need a diode ?

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Bob

12-17-2004 10:08:42

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Re: JD B in reply to Mike M, 12-17-2004 09:34:49

Originally, the alternator was designed for use with an "idiot lite" in the dash, using a #194 bulb. You can use a #194 bulb OR a diode.

So with the conversion you can use a panel-mount "idiot lite", or use a "side marker light", mounted out of sight under the dash somewhere.

The alternative is to use a diode with the cathode (banded end) towards the alternator #1 terminal. Get a diode rated at 3 or 4 amps @ 1000PIV. This appears to be overkill, but is not costly and works well. I sometimes use 2-ECG 125 diodes in parallel, which gives a rating of 5 Amps @ 1000 PIV.

Some people obtain a 3-terminal ignition switch and hook the #1 alternator terminal to the ACC terminal, which works OK, also.

Another way is to use a 2-terminal low pressure N.O. oil pressure switch to complete the circuit from battery power to the #1 terminal only when the engine is running.

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Will S

12-17-2004 08:22:24

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Re: JD B in reply to Bob, 12-17-2004 07:07:36

Thank you for the wiring assistance Bob. My next concern is the carburetor repair and adjust. Is there information available on tear down, cleaning and adjusting (setting) the Marvel-Schebler series DLTX carburetor?

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JPatton

12-17-2004 19:19:26

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Re: JD B in reply to Will S, 12-17-2004 08:22:24

Here is the link to Roberts Carb. Repair. He does complete rebuilds and sells parts. He has a very good video on carb rebuilding. He also has one for magnetos.

Link

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