TRACTOR PARTS Allis Chalmers Case & David Brown Farmall & International Ferguson Ford & New Holland John Deere Massey Ferguson Massey Harris Minneapolis Moline Oliver & Cockshutt Kubota / Yanmar

TRACTOR MANUALS

Allis Chalmers	Case	Farmall IH	Ford 8N,9N,2N	Ford
Ferguson	John Deere	Massey Ferguson	Minn. Moline	Oliver

Tractor Talk Discussion Forum

Pole barn for my tractors

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register

Author

Ralph Edwards

04-05-2005 07:48:35

Report to Moderator

Hi, I have a few questions and am looking for any tips on a pole barn I will be purcahsing this summer.

What about skylights? Do they leak? Where should they be placed, roof or under the eaves?

I plan on having 1 foot overhangs on all 4 sides...is it worth the extra $800?

What abou the treated 6x6 posts....they did gown 42 inches and place a concrete pad...what to back fill with? Dirt or stone?

ANy other tips?

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

Dave Sherburne,NY

04-05-2005 18:05:28

Report to Moderator

Re: Pole barn for my tractors in reply to Ralph Edwards, 04-05-2005 07:48:35

Skylights won't leak if done right BUT I have seen roofs where the metal sheets below the skylights corrode. I wouldn't put them in the roof.

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

Bill in NorthCentral PA

04-05-2005 13:51:02

Report to Moderator

Re: Pole barn for my tractors in reply to Ralph Edwards, 04-05-2005 07:48:35

Ralph, I have built a large number of pole barns for commerical, industrial, residential and ag uses. I always insisted on side overhangs, the customer could opt for ends if wanted (the rain gets farther awway from the building). I usually used 6x6 PT posts, up to 16' eave (20' posts), then did the lamination thing. Posts were typically 8' on center, with trusses 4' on center. I used polycarbonate skylights, 4:12 roof slope, minimum, and 29 gauge or 26 gauge steel roofing (galvalume, not galvanized). the trims were always ordered from the roofing manufacturer, and I had a special fascia trim made that I liked very well. It covered the soffit under the overhang (1/2", a 5-1/2" fascia (2x4 fascia mounted below a 1-1/2" purlin (with a slight space to allow for less than perfect lumber) and then it turned up under the roofing about 2". The soffit side was hemmed for a finished look, and to hide the exposed metal edge from the elements. I would predrill the nail holes through the soffit (I like vinyl), and nailed down into the first roof purlin. This allows for the metal fascia piece to expand and contract across the vertical face, without dimpling from nails driven directly into the face. When insulated the ceiling, ideally, a white liner panel was screwed to the bottom chords of the trusses (which need to be designed for this load) and then I had a building supply company blow in fiberglass insulation. In snow prone areas I would absolutely recommend an overhead door as the sliders get caught in the snow (the sliders need to hang down over the concrete lip to be stable when closed and latched). The 6x6 PT posts do get treatment into the center, but the heartwood ans sapwood appear different. I have no reservations using solid sawn lumber. I would have a trench drain in the middle, formed from concrete, with very good slope to the drain (in a 30' wide building, probably 2" - 3". I like to use a PVC pipe up through the bottom of the drain, and let it stick up 3" or so. This lets the solids settle out in the drain where they can be shoveled out easily, rather than in the pipe which is harder to clean. I'm out of time right now, but if you have any questions, post them and I'll check in the next day or two.

Good Luck,

Bill

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

John M

04-05-2005 12:49:06

Report to Moderator

Re: Pole barn for my tractors in reply to Ralph Edwards, 04-05-2005 07:48:35

Heres mine!Giong all the way to the ground on the sides eventually,and concrete floor,eventually!30 X 30,Dealer done the frame,I put on the siding,but bought through him,invested so far,right at 3600.

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

Bob - MI

04-05-2005 11:43:37

Report to Moderator

Re: Pole barn for my tractors in reply to Ralph Edwards, 04-05-2005 07:48:35

Skylights will eventually leak. Eave overhang will put runoff away from the foundation. Your call on how you want to do that. I have under-eave light panels on my barn and they work pretty well.

I would consider an extension of the eaves on one side for a lean-to. A little more money but it can ease the crowding inside as the collection builds. You can always enclose it later if you get more/better toys. Also if you are in snow country think about a roll-up door instead of a bypass. A side service door is nice as well as a rear door to drive through. Floor drain is handy also. Fiber-reinforced concrete is a little more expensive but holds up very well.

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

Mark - IN.

04-05-2005 17:54:29

Report to Moderator

Re: Pole barn for my tractors in reply to Bob - MI, 04-05-2005 11:43:37

In Indiana, at least Eklhart County a floor drain is a no-no anymore. Environmentalists said gas, oil, toxics drip onto the floor, and end up down into the drain, so will require septic. I almost put one in, glad I mentioned it when was pulling the permit or the inspector would've had a field day with me when he showed up. Then again, I can wash the gas, oil, and toxics out the door and onto the ground, just not down a drain. They're the boss, I just pay taxes and say "Yes Sir, No Sir, Would never do that Sir".

Mark

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

Rich G

04-05-2005 10:50:16

Report to Moderator

Re: Pole barn for my tractors in reply to Ralph Edwards, 04-05-2005 07:48:35

Ralph I put mine up (MN) with 1 foot over hangs on the sides only. Like the previous post said, if your are going to insulate forget the sky lights. Mine are not insulated and have a ridge light running the full length of the barn.

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

Doyle Alley

04-05-2005 10:05:50

Report to Moderator

Re: Pole barn for my tractors in reply to Ralph Edwards, 04-05-2005 07:48:35

I always find it interesting when "northerners" start talking about sides on a pole barn. To us, a pole barn is just that, a collection of evenly spaced poles, topped by trusses and a metal roof. Poles are sometimes square stock (6X6), but usually are telephone type poles. I guess such a design wouldn't be much good up where it gets much snow (or cold).

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

Coloken

04-05-2005 11:04:20

Report to Moderator

Re: Pole barn for my tractors in reply to Doyle Alley, 04-05-2005 10:05:50

You got that right Doyle. As I type this the present "storm" in eastern Colorado is forcast for 4 to 8 inches snow with 55 MPH wind. I 70 maybe closed. When I put up a quanset years ago, they put a loover (sp?) in the top north end. I not only had to shut it, I had to caulk it. A pole barn with out sides would require cable tie down.

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

Doyle Alley

04-05-2005 11:18:02

Report to Moderator

Re: Pole barn for my tractors in reply to Coloken, 04-05-2005 11:04:20

Actually, an open sided pole barn that is well constructed will hold up quite well in high winds. We had 3 hurricanes come through here last year. The first one, Hurricane Charley, wiped out entire towns only 30 miles away. We had winds right at 70 MPH at the house, but fortunately, no damage (other than loads of small limbs down in the yard). There is a huge pole barn down the road that is big enough to hold multiple semi trucks. I thought that anything that size would act just like a parachute and catch the wind. But, it withstood the wind like a champ. It proved to me that proper construction is VERY important.

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

Coloken

04-05-2005 11:56:44

Report to Moderator

Re: Pole barn for my tractors in reply to Doyle Alley, 04-05-2005 11:18:02

On second thought, I believe you could be right on open sided building. I remember a few year back where "hand nailed" houses by a church group were standing while the comercial built ones were down. Just a little bit better made a lot of diference.
Kennny

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

Mattlt

04-05-2005 08:31:16

Report to Moderator

Re: Pole barn for my tractors in reply to Ralph Edwards, 04-05-2005 07:48:35

If you are ever going to insulate and sheet off the inside, forget the skylights. I would personally shy away from using them on the roof (the translucent panels) I've never seen any last as long as the surrounding steel. My .02 cents.

I have ridge lights and ridge vents in mine, and I like them. I have some leakage through the ridge vents when the snow really blows - nothing too drastic.

Face it, overhangs are mainly for looks. Yes, they do keep some water away from the sides of the building, keeping the sides cleaner. You could also put some type of rain gutter on the shed, accomplishing the same thing.

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

Mark - IN.

04-05-2005 17:42:33

Report to Moderator

Re: Pole barn for my tractors in reply to Mattlt, 04-05-2005 08:31:16

I do have insolation lining the roof, 1/2" thick blue plyable foam stuff that keeps the condensation from dripping down. But love that ridge light. Runs the length of the peak, doubles as a vent, gives a ton of light, and overlaps the gap pretty good. A few flakes too, but nothing major.

Mark

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

RustyFarmall

04-05-2005 08:07:15

Report to Moderator

Re: Pole barn for my tractors in reply to Ralph Edwards, 04-05-2005 07:48:35

Quite a few of the commercial builders have stopped using pressure treated 6X6 posts. They have found that the pressure treating quite often does not penetrate all the way to the center of the post, and in a few years the posts will begin to rot at ground level. The answer is to use pressure treated 2X6s, 3 of these laminated together will equal a 6X6, and be even stronger. Plus, only that portion that is in contact with the ground needs to be treated, which could save some money.

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

JPB

04-05-2005 14:00:32

Report to Moderator

Re: Pole barn for my tractors in reply to RustyFarmall, 04-05-2005 08:07:15

Yes u are rite about the laminated poles having a little better retention for the new treatments, and they tend to be much straighter than solids, but typically they can be more expensive, probably about 30% more. With the treatment used in the solid poles today such as the AQC, i would make sure the poles are treated at a recommended below grade retention. Also dont put the cut ends in the ground, keep the cut ends up by the truss carrier where they wont get wet anyhow. As long as the treatment is not desturbed the pole should be fine. Most importantly, remember to use hot dipped gal. or stainless fastners with the new treatment. Bright nails will rust out extremely fast. Also it is important to run a layer of ice shield or some short of protective layer to seperate the treated batter board from your steel rat guard and siding, otherwise the high copper concentration in the treatment will react with the steel also. Just a few thoughts from a pole barn supplier

[Log in to Reply] [No Email]

[Options] [Printer Friendly] [Posting Help] [Return to Forum] [Log in to Reply]

TRACTOR PARTS	TRACTOR MANUALS

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home | Forums

Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy