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Tractor Talk Discussion Forum

stud removal

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toolman

08-13-2005 10:55:17




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snapped two studs off, they hold part of the steering linkage on, was bolted to the side of the tranny on a tea2085 fergy tractor, any ideas on getting the broken studs out, i was figguring on welding a bolt to them and try turning them out using the bolt. don,t have much faith in easyouts, and would have to take the loader off(big job). are there any new things around now for removing broken studs, thanks for any help or ideas.

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john d

08-13-2005 16:18:50




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 Re: stud removal in reply to toolman, 08-13-2005 10:55:17  
Depending on the size of the bolt and what you have for an electric drill, you MAY have some luck with a LEFT HAND drill bit. They cut when turning counter-clockwise, and will often spin a broken bolt right out of a hole. If you decide to try an easy-out tool, you're going to need a hole anyway.

If you have to drill that bolt, I'd suggest drilling a piece of 1/2 or thicker plate stock with the size hole you need, then clamping it over the bolt if possible. If you have this pre-drilled hole lined up square over the bolt, it'll act as somewhat of a guide and keep you more nearly centered on the bolt itself.

Take your time.....

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sdloy

08-13-2005 12:20:17




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 Re: stud removal in reply to toolman, 08-13-2005 10:55:17  
You will have a lot better luck with welding a nut on over the broken stud if you will drill completely thru it first. When you weld get it all the way to the bottom of the broken bolt and when it cools this will create more shrinkage of the bolt. Most will come out with a pliers after this treatment. Loy



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JMS/MN

08-13-2005 11:46:45




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 Re: stud removal in reply to toolman, 08-13-2005 10:55:17  
I don't see the point of welding a bolt onto a broken bolt- you're messing with the base material trying to do that. Weld a NUT over the broken stud- can even use a slightly larger nut without welding into the base material. As it cools, put some candle wax on- it melts and flows between the threads of the broken stud, loosening it. Heat of welding also helps to loosen.



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old

08-13-2005 11:25:22




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 Re: stud removal in reply to toolman, 08-13-2005 10:55:17  
Easy outs work very well, but heres the big one. If they are the right ones. Them cheap hardware store ones only brake. The ones I use cost me $100 almost in a set of 20 or so but they work and don't brake. Your idea may work but if you can a nut that will slip over the stud and welded on will work better the welding a bolt on. The nut on there will also help save the area from a mistake when you do the welding.

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toolman

08-13-2005 12:40:21




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 Re: stud removal in reply to old, 08-13-2005 11:25:22  
thanks guys , can,t do the nut thing as it is broken below the surface of the tranny wall, one is even with the wall the other is just a tad below , thats why i figgered a smaller bolt could fit in there and use the mig to attach it.if i go the easy out route i have to remove the loader in order to get the drill in there, might have to di that but was looking at getting them out without going that route first.thanks again.

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Johnski

08-13-2005 13:33:26




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 Re: stud removal in reply to toolman, 08-13-2005 12:40:21  
I've had very good luck welding a large flat washer to the broken piece of bolt and then welding a nut onto the flat washer. It's easy to fill the hole in the washer with weld even if its a tad low and that also gives you a larger surface to weld a nut to. Haven't tried applying beeswax but I bet it wouldn't hurt. HTH ;>0



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Bernie in MA

08-13-2005 18:05:49




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 Re: stud removal in reply to Johnski, 08-13-2005 13:33:26  
I've had good luck doing it this way too. If the stud was going into the side of the casting you can gob some weld on it until it sticks out enough to hang the washer on. It's easier with a wire welder.



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toolman

08-13-2005 18:25:55




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 Re: stud removal in reply to Bernie in MA, 08-13-2005 18:05:49  
well i just came in tried drilling and an easy out they are suppose to be the "best money can buy", where have i heard that before, yup you guessed it snapped an easy out off in there , managed to get that out, no shortcuts on this job im afraid, tomorrow i,ll pull the loader and try welding a washer and nut, i figgered i could weld a bolt on the stud and use the head of the bolt to get a wrench on and turn the stud out, we,ll see what happens , i don,t know how well a helicoil would hold there as it,s a part of the steering , would have to be pretty strong.

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JMS/MN

08-13-2005 23:46:27




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 Re: stud removal in reply to toolman, 08-13-2005 18:25:55  
'Can't do the nut thing- broken below surface of tranny wall'...weld a bolt on the stud.....smaller bolt would fit in there, use mig to attach.... Even if the bolt is broken below the surface, you can still weld a nut in place, without penetrating into the base material. Welding a smaller bolt means you are welding on the outside of the bolt-less material to work with. Another alternative if welding to the old stud does not work is to drill out the stud and re-tap for a larger one.

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toolman

08-14-2005 01:50:03




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 Re: stud removal in reply to JMS/MN, 08-13-2005 23:46:27  
thanks guys , yup i thought about retapping , it,s a 7/16 stud and about 1/2 in of it in the tranny casing, i.ll try the weld thing first , i have a mig, and see if i can get anywhere with that if not i don, t have much choice but to drill it or get it out anyway i can and then try retapping or the heilcoil.broken studs have always giving me headaches lol seem s this one is going to be the same.

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