GM atlernator for tractor

Ive seen them wired direct with no resistors and without any idiot lights that worked just fine while others had to have the diode to prevent run on. Im a strong believer in an ounce of protection is worth more then a pound of cure and as an added safety feature I use the 10 ohm current limiting safety resistor myself, but its your tractor and your choice.

John T PS this is for a GM 10SI 3 wire alternator, dotn forget it requires NEGATIVE GROUND !!!

Jumper the lead from # 2 over to the large output stud. (Going all the way to the (+) battery cable with that lead gives better regulation of voltage at the battery, but is not absolutely necessary on an old tractor.) Connecting it to the output stud will work fine.

Connect switched power from the key switch to the #1 terminal, with a diode, or a #194 bulb "idiot light" in that line. A 1N5006 or 1N5008 diode is a good choice. The white-banded "cathode" end of the diode goes towards the #1 terminal.

Bob Melville, over on the Farmall board, has a bunch of GREAT diagrams for IH conversions, there should be one that will work for your Case:

Link

Also, Mad Electrical has a helpfull tech section on their site. It is geared to the "hot rod" crowd, but is just as usefull with these old tractor conversions:

http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml

the # 1 terminal is the relay term.the #2 terminal is the field terminal and should be hooked to the ignition switch.the # 1terminal should be jumpered to the output terminal.without a diode or idiot light in the ignition circuit,the motor would not turn off,since when the alt.is charging the 1 and 2 circuits are connected and power is fed back into the ignition.once the alt.is excited it will continue to charge even with the key off,until the alt.stops turning

Keith