Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo Auction Link (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Tractor Talk Discussion Forum

track and roller door

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
ross in ns

01-12-2006 03:56:04




Report to Moderator

hi all going to be putting up a new door in building like the track and roller type just wondering how much bigger to make the doors than the opening my opening is 14 feet by 14 feet and also around what will the new door weigh to figure outhow many rollers to install my local supplier has many different ideas about this thanks for any info ross




[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
J.C. IN AZ.

01-12-2006 08:11:49




Report to Moderator
 Re: track and roller door in reply to ross in ns, 01-12-2006 03:56:04  
You have received some very knowlegeable advise here from every one so my few cents worth is to stay away from Cannon Ball products and use National Steel Track Rollers and Closure Hardware. The Steel Frame is the only way to build a door but keep in mind that the wind is a large enemy of these light Wt. doors.Keep them tied down at all times,open or closed.There are Hardware Parts to accomplish both situations.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
dan hill

01-15-2006 02:39:42




Report to Moderator
 Re: track and roller door in reply to J.C. IN AZ., 01-12-2006 08:11:49  
I have had plenty of problems with square door track for over 40 years.The hanger bolts rub on the the track and wear thru.The square track is made with light gauge steel and it bends inward and falls out of the brackets.I put a 4x8 door up on Cannon ball track.It runs so easy that the wind can push it along the track.Try this with square track.I put an inside hook latch on the door to keep it shut.This keeps the door from flapping in the wind.I have 2 more 4x8 doors to put up, they will be using cannon ball track.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Eldon (WA)

01-12-2006 07:48:39




Report to Moderator
 Re: track and roller door in reply to ross in ns, 01-12-2006 03:56:04  
The last 3 barns I've put up I used the aluminum/steel door kits available from the sheet steel supply co. They are lighter weight, won't rot, and make a really nice looking door. The edges of the steel fit inside a channel for a nice finished look. I overlap 6" on each end and 1" on the top and bottom. Don't put the bottom in a groove or it will get full of dirt or ice and just cause problems. The aluminum channel on the bottom has a mating angle that fits inside to guide the door when opening and keeps it from being caught by the wind. The kit also includes the latches.....for the extra money it costs over wood, it goes together a lot faster and is easy to put up.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Bill in NorthCentral Pa

01-12-2006 07:10:04




Report to Moderator
 Re: track and roller door in reply to ross in ns, 01-12-2006 03:56:04  
For every door I've built, I make the door wider than the opening by the width of the end rail - that is to say if I used 2x4, I made the door 3 1/2" larger each side. This allows for a cam style door keeper to be fastened into the horizontal rail (often times comes with a bracket to strengthen the rail).

Good luck,

Bill



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Quebec Bob

01-12-2006 05:33:41




Report to Moderator
 Re: track and roller door in reply to ross in ns, 01-12-2006 03:56:04  
I switched from using square channel tubing to the round tubing on roller doors a few years ago, using the measurements offered by the manufacturer to determine distance between supports. I have been extremely pleased. I even used them in the new box stalls because they slide so much better than the square tubing. The roller balls are made of neoprene or some such, rather than steel and they roll better longer. More importantly, if the wind or anything catches a door and it flips up, even a foot or two, those roller balls are designed to move, rather than the square channel twisting. I know you didn't ask this question specifically, but once you have moved these doors one time with the round tube method, you'll never go back. I got the idea from a big commercial farm nearby with plenty of large shed doors. They told me they would never go back.

I used 2x6's everywhere, top, sides and middle, with notched joints and metal splicers, so that I would only have to build it once, unlike my first efforts with 2x4s that would come apart over the years. With the round system, the weight is not an issue. Good luck.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
JMS/MN

01-12-2006 05:33:35




Report to Moderator
 Re: track and roller door in reply to ross in ns, 01-12-2006 03:56:04  
Two roller sets is all you need- my shop door is 24 feet, two rollers. Builder said putting more in just makes it hard to adjust to equalize the load. Been hanging ok for 23 years.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
VADAVE

01-12-2006 05:23:20




Report to Moderator
 Re: track and roller door in reply to ross in ns, 01-12-2006 03:56:04  
The overlap on the sides need only be enough to close the opening and latch. Top and bottom it depends on the purpose of the door. If it is to keep the weather out and allow heating then you need the inch at the top and a slot at the bottom and you need to pull it in tight to the frame. If it is for secutity and some weather protection then you can leave a gap athe topo and bottom. If you want it weather proof I suggest only one door--overlaping doors cannot be sealed.
Weight--well the top will be a 2X6 the sides can be 2X4's and then the skin. Even if you use 2X6's all the way I don't believe it will weigh more then the 400 lbs the track and rollers are designed for.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
IaGary

01-12-2006 05:11:20




Report to Moderator
 Re: track and roller door in reply to ross in ns, 01-12-2006 03:56:04  
If you are using wood 2x4 frame make it big enough to put an eye on the inside of the end 2x4 to hook it shut. This eye is put inside so it doesn't catch when siding the door and it has to line up with the hook on post at sides of the building. Hope I make scenes to you. If this door is 2x4 with steel siding I beleive two rollers about 24" from each end are enough. If door is two sections 2 rollers on each half are diffently enough. Just my thoughts.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Blackhole49

01-12-2006 05:09:17




Report to Moderator
 Re: track and roller door in reply to ross in ns, 01-12-2006 03:56:04  
My 12'x12' steel sided door fits tight against the frame when drawn in and over laps the top and two sides by about 2". The bottom is about 1/2" below the cement. Two rollers carries it with no problem.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy