Hay condtioners

Hurst

The next year I sold my cheap tedder and bought a 'real' one. Most important thing I have to make hay. The key is when to use it. Most people wait too long, and the curing benefit isnt there, plus the leaf shatter is intolerable. I cut no more than 4 hrs at a time for dry hay, then tedder. It takes the same amount of time running it even though it covers twice as much width, I run at 50% ground speed (once again against conventional wisdom).

Alfalfa only loses moisture two ways. Continuing respiration out of the leaves until they wilt and out ouf areas of the stem that are either broken or bruised. A conditioner simply cracks the cuticle layer. Tedding gives the same effect, along with bruising of the stem which sets the green color (just like standing on tobacco tips on the wagon sets the undesirable greens).

Certainly I could buy a new discbine, but $$ has been an issue. Its on the purchase list b/c it will save time, not that it makes any better hay than the combo. BTW, I am keeping the haybine, since a disc mower still doesnt like to cut soybeans, lol.

Hurst

For timothy/alfalfa (my main bill payer), I try to plant in the fall no til. Soil test, lime, and fertilizer is critical. Lime needs to be down 6 mo before planting. Spring plantings are ok but the first year is never worth much, and esp if planted in the spring. Varieties I like are Alfagraze for the alflafa (even fields I dont graze) with part in Clair and part in Climax timothy (spreads harvest). Rates, I use 8# timothy, 20# coated alfalfa (set the drill on 15#, the coated seed flows faster). A good drill is hard to find in W.C., I think all the rentals are Tye units (which I detest, the coulters are always set and rusted to plant too deep). Dont skimp on getting the burn down right if you notil or getting a good seed bed if conventional.

My two cents worth