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Metal Roofs?

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K-Mo

02-15-2006 07:42:36

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I want to put a metal roof over exsisting wood/asphalt shingles on my corn crib. I have heard that this will cause condensation that will cause the old underlying roof to rot out. I live in Iowa where it is hot, cold and humid. Yesterday it was near 60 degs tomorrow it is to be 12 deg.
Is this a real concern? Its there a moisture barrier that should be installed?

K-Mo

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Jim Terhune

02-15-2006 17:59:21

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Re: Metal Roofs? in reply to K-Mo, 02-15-2006 07:42:36

Have a question....I have considered a metal roof on shingles but with the 2x4 on the side as mentioned....can someone step or walk on the metal roof without bending it?? Would this be a problem??

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Dave NE IA

02-16-2006 07:03:53

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Re: Metal Roofs? in reply to Jim Terhune, 02-15-2006 17:59:21

As far as walking on the steel you must walk on a scales first before answering that question. Up to the early 70's we walked on the steel from our suppliers. After that and a lot more pounds absolutly no for me. When you walk on steel you walk on perloins or eventualy wish you had. Stuff is pretty expensive to throw away, and the next sheet will be a little different in color. Seems when the companies redesigned their products they ended up with a less desirable product. (ever hear that one before) Semi's can carry more pc's now and not be overloaded. In reality there are designs in some steel that makes it better than others. The straighter up and down the ribs are make it stronger, 1/2inch or 1 1/8 adds alot. The tensile strength also is a big factor, as far as guage---Im not so sure that 28 to 26 guage is enough to toot the steel companies horn. In our area 24" is max. on the span of the perloins although some companies allow 30" O'C'roof and 48"O'C' on sidewalls. Back when they redesigned their product, We had some major issues wth the company so were invited up to the big conference room with the big guy's. (big big leather chairs also) One of our issues was we could not walk on it the way we used to. A big guy who probably never had ever wore anything but a suit decided to demonstrate that it was strong enough to hold him. The dumb A$$ layed it flat on the cement floor and showed me it held him, and he pointed out he was even bigger than me. Of course I couldn't let that go so I got a couple of skid 4 x 4's and placed them 24 inches apart. He ended up not just bending the steel, but was on the floor with his crotch ripped completly out. I know I'm sick and twisted, but that sure made the five hr drive well worth my while. I did get a thumbs up from the guy's on the line after it happened. Dave NE IA

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Jim Terhune

02-16-2006 11:17:08

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Re: Metal Roofs? in reply to Dave NE IA, 02-16-2006 07:03:53

I feel the last 2 responses have answered my question rather well. In responding to the scales that were mentioned....I am also what you would call a "vertical challenge" so walking on the metal roof could be a problem. I had the question based on cleaning out the gutters on my house. Metal roofing is becoming very popular in my area and I would like to replace the shingles with metal when the time comes. Thanks

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paul

02-15-2006 20:32:28

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Re: Metal Roofs? in reply to Jim Terhune, 02-15-2006 17:59:21

Well, it's only a 10 inch span, so should be able to step on it. I wouldn't know, my roofs are all too steep to stand on!

On the barn we (by 'we' I mean _me_, I had no fingerprints for a while after that, barn is ~90x40, high peaked hay mow) peeled the asphalt shingles off, left the old wood ones up, nailed the tin onto it flat. Has worked for, um, 25 years now.

Most of the rest look to be tar paper or bare roof boards, with the tin nailed on top of that. One dad gotgood used aluminumn, had to put construction paper over the tarpaper, would be a bad reaction without.

I think the flat 2x4s spaced 2 feet is most always a good way to go, if the weight isn't getting too much with the old shingles up there. Question: What/ how many do you use to hold the 2x4s onto the old roof?

Different manufacturers have different requirements for where to put the screws (nails were all the rage when we did the roofs - screws are better of course) so look to them. Sometimes the peaks, sometimes the valleys of the tin. No one way is always right.

--->Paul

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Gene-AL

02-15-2006 14:40:24

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Re: Metal Roofs? in reply to K-Mo, 02-15-2006 07:42:36

Around here the sheet metal is usually placed directly on old shingles, which are eave-trimmed and any existing holes patched. The ridgecap (or whatever they are called) shingles are removed and the v's in all the metal sheets ventilate underneath continuous vent caps along all ridgelines, as well as additional slots cut under the highest vent caps into the attic. Plumbing vents are sealed to the sheets with flexible boots. Metal sheets are precut to order from rolls to the exact lengths needed for a particular job. Metal is attached with special screws which come with seals on them. I'm no carpenter or roofer so my terminology may not be correct.

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Dave NE IA

02-15-2006 13:56:56

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Re: Metal Roofs? in reply to K-Mo, 02-15-2006 07:42:36

2 x 4's are the way we always go except on the eves. We use a 2 x 6 so if you use over the roof hangers sometimes refered to as ez-on, you can use all four holes in the hanger (must be drilled out a little to accept the wood tite screws) Our supplier says never over the top of shingles as no warrenty. Many folks make the mistake of applying the stitch screw (where the lap is) in the center of the rib. This can fast become a problem. We offset the screw to avoid the drain chanel. We get called out on many leaking metal roofs for that reason. We also started out on the high roofs putting a additional screw just aside the stitch screw (on the lapping sheet)in case the stitch ever worked loose you had a backup plan in play. We also screw on both sides of the rib on the eves as that is where the wind gets under the tin. 1979 and other than a tornado throwing a barn on top of our addition we have yet to replace / rescrew a flapping pice of tin. The Amish around here do not strip the roofs with 2 x 4's and get er done cheaper. Most of our older structures have origanaly had wood shingles and do not have tight sheating. We must assume that they have more wisdom than my crew as when we are on this type of roof we can't calculate where the gaps in the sheeting are. Thus you have a screw held in place by wood shingles /asphalt shingles. That is why everyone says tin roofs leak. Dave NE IA

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dhermesc

02-15-2006 11:49:30

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Re: Metal Roofs? in reply to K-Mo, 02-15-2006 07:42:36

I'd peel off the old shingles, if for no better reason then to reduce the weight the trusses are bearing. It will also help reduce the amount of moister that is trapped between the layers of old shingles (I'm assuming it leaked) and the new tin.

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Tim in New York

02-15-2006 09:17:50

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Re: Metal Roofs? in reply to K-Mo, 02-15-2006 07:42:36

How did they cover the gap at the eaves? I assume some kind of special trim pieces, same color as roofing? How did it look?

Tim

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Ken in Mich

02-15-2006 08:32:56

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Re: Metal Roofs? in reply to K-Mo, 02-15-2006 07:42:36

I put a metal room on my house over shingles. If you do a google the manufactors have several accepted ways of laying this stuff. You can put it directly on the shingles, but the prefered method is nailing 2X4 like perlins and putting the roof sheets on top. They actually say 2X2s but 2X4s are much cheaper, just put the long side against the shingles.

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txgrn

02-15-2006 08:00:50

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Re: Metal Roofs? in reply to K-Mo, 02-15-2006 07:42:36

Asphalt shingles are a vapor barrier if you are concerned. Most metal has ridges which allow for any condensation to run down the roof and drain off.

I did it to my house about 10 years ago; put metal over built up asphalt roll roofing (pitch was only 2-12; too shallow for normal shingles; but roll was made from the same material) and was one of the best things I ever did.

Your dealer can probably get it for you in the length you want so you only need one sheet per side to cover the entire ridge to eave distance.

Be sure and use the special metal to wood screws that your metal supplier stocks. They have a 1/4" hex drive, sealing washer, and neoprene gasket; sharp pointed, not metal self tapping type.

Do it!

Mark

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mjbrown

02-15-2006 08:12:37

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Re: Metal Roofs? in reply to txgrn, 02-15-2006 08:00:50

I had this done on my house also. The contractor screwed 2x4's (laid flat and parallel to the eves) to the rafters two feet apart. Then srewed the metal to the 2x4's. That is supposed to prevent moisture being trapped the way it might if the metal were laid on the roofing direct. Hope he's right.

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Lou

02-15-2006 08:33:07

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Re: Metal Roofs? in reply to mjbrown, 02-15-2006 08:12:37

The contractor did it the right way.You want the air gap the 2/4 gives you.

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