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Tractor Talk Discussion Forum

Shop heat

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RedJD

02-20-2006 09:51:00




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I use wood to heat my shop, ( 38 by 40 with 16 ft. roof) bought one of those kits to convert two 55 gal. barrels into a wood burning heater.It doen't seem to want to draw very good.I've been thinking about adding an oil drip to it.What do you guys use in your shops and how does it work?




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RickL

02-21-2006 05:52:40




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 Re: Shop heat in reply to RedJD, 02-20-2006 09:51:00  
I had one of the barrel kits also for few years,and yea it always smoked up the shop some. Tore that kit apart and used same parts and used a 275 gal oblong tank instead. The one that used to set along homes with kerosene in them. Had used this unit for several years for water tank before making into stove. It worked alot better,but Ins companies are not much in favor of those barrrel kits. Shop has since grown and know have overhead radiant heaters,best thing I did. Didin't know a shop could be so not smokey feeling. Wood heat is nice yes,but my Insurance sure went down also.

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Glen in TX

02-20-2006 17:25:41




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 Re: Shop heat in reply to RedJD, 02-20-2006 09:51:00  
I agree with what someone else said about you adding to chimney pipe to draft better. When I put a chimney kit for my shop woodstove I added a extra joint in it to raise it more over peak of roof. On days with high winds out I have to be careful not to build too hot a fire in it because it drafts so well now. My stove has a metal porcelain finish cabinet around the center of stove box and I put a squirrel cage fan right on the cabinet where it had hole for one but that doesn't work as well as the other double squirrel cage fan I hung from wires from the ceiling back behind it a ways to blow warm air off the stack and top of stove.

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Dave NE IA

02-20-2006 12:34:30




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 Re: Shop heat in reply to RedJD, 02-20-2006 09:51:00  
Those little barrel stoves will put out a lot of heat. I have a wood furnace for the house, lp backup and a large wood furnace for the shop, and have only burned 3 tanks of lp since 1990. I can honestly say those little barrel stoves kick some major butt for the investment.
A friend has a barrel stove, and has back draft problems, the only ways to cure the draw problem is to add to the chimney height 99% of the time. If you have good draft with any wood furnace or stove the fire should dance when you throw paper products in. The hotter the fire the more draft it will create. A example is many folks start a little grass fire on a day there is no wind, and it gets away on them. This is because when the fire gets going good it will draw air from the side to displace the hot air rising, and then it seems the wind just picked up. Another option that is probably not practical is to insulate the chimney, a hot chimney draws better, and less condisation than a cold one. If your chimney is not drawing as good as it used to, you may have a train wreck in the near future due to creasote build up chocking your chimney size down. You no doubt know about chimney fires. If you choose to drip oil, that will not make it draw better unless your fire perks up. I suppose the first question I should of asked is are you burning dry wood. Not always easy to burn dry wood, but even us that put things off, have to agree that dry wood is the best hands down. The only other quick fix you can try is if you have a cap on top of your chimney try taking it off as a test. Dave NE IA

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RedJD

02-20-2006 10:55:29




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 Re: Shop heat in reply to RedJD, 02-20-2006 09:51:00  
Yes, I built a steel frame to put in the bottom to keep the fire off the bottom of the barrel and I also put some sand in the bottom. I was thinking the problem was in the top barrel and now that someone mentioned this, I think maby I'll get rid of the top barrel, if adding an oil drip doesn't help. Thanks for the replys.



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JiminIA

02-20-2006 10:31:50




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 Re: Shop heat in reply to RedJD, 02-20-2006 09:51:00  
I found my barrel stoves to work better without the top barrel, I also added a magicheat(sp) heat reclaimer to it and that really puts the heat out. I drip oil on the fire aswell. My shop is 30x 50 uninsulated....Jim



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PJBROWN

02-20-2006 10:16:53




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 Re: Shop heat in reply to RedJD, 02-20-2006 09:51:00  
REDJD...I was thinking....When I was a kid I used to sugar on a rid made out of a 55 gal oil drum. I remember that I had to make grates to raise the fire off the bottom of the barrel so it could get air from the botton draft. If I remember I got some old plow blades from the Town that they used on the snow plows because the steel was so darn hard that it could with stand the heat.



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PJBROWN

02-20-2006 10:09:58




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 Re: Shop heat in reply to RedJD, 02-20-2006 09:51:00  
We have and old coal/wood boiler that we picked up..... It's about 7 feet tall and 5 feet around. The botton ash door has been made over with a oil burner in it. There is fire brick inside where the ashes used be. It works great!!!! There is a heat exchanger on the back where the stove pipe goes out. It's big and takes up some room. I could see where I waste oil furance in the roof would be nice.

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Harley

02-20-2006 12:39:30




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 Re: Shop heat in reply to PJBROWN, 02-20-2006 10:09:58  
I also threw the top barrel away, and then put a cheap 20 inch window fan behind and a little above the single barrel and this worked pretty good. Since then I made a wood (or anything else) burner that's 4'high,4'deep, and 2' wide and has 8 - 2" pipes running from the front to the back about a third of the way down from the top of the stove. I put a regular furnace squirrel cage fan on the back and it will really warms things up. Harley

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