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Tractor Talk Discussion Forum

Motor Oil

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mtgummibear

03-04-2006 09:58:30




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Does anyone have strong feelings, or better yet, independent research, about the quality of "store" brands motor oil?

What do you think? If two motor oils of the same weight, meet the same specifications, are they equal?

I have to think regular changes and new filters are much more important, but I am interested to hear what others have to say.

Larry




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newt924

03-05-2006 18:33:24




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 Re: Motor Oil in reply to mtgummibear, 03-04-2006 09:58:30  
All multi-grade oils have in their additive package an ingredient called zincalkaldythiophosphate which is an anti-oxidant
(keeps oil from thickening into Crisco). Im about 2000 mile it starts to break down into phosphoric acid, which is what causes oil to start turning black(not dirt). Thats the time to change it. If you use straight wts.(10, 20, 30,etc)that ingredient is missing. Oil stays golden longer.US military uses only straight wt. oils. Use 30wt in summer, 20 in spring and fall.
The only additive I use is Sliplube(which I make)

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B-maniac

03-05-2006 08:57:10




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 Re: Motor Oil in reply to mtgummibear, 03-04-2006 09:58:30  
The oil additive package wears out and the oil gets polluted and now you are back to single weight non detergent oil that is dirty. Oil itself doesn't wear out but you don't want just "oil itself" in your engine either. It's up to the individual engine usage as to when the above happens and when to change oil. I agree with the other posts on the brand equallity but no one has adressed full synthetics! With my limited education on these AND my own personal experience I believe they are superior.I believe the additive package,the viscosity stability,the lubricity and the clinging/sheeting ability far surpasses the others.Here's what I've been told as to what causes all that..maybe someone on here can verify. The molecules in regular oil are of all different sizes... in synthetics they are all the same size...hense,the lubricity/load bearing capacityof a layer of ball bearings of all the same size is superior to that of a layer of bearings of varying sizes (load is carried by only the largest ones as apposed to every molecule supporting the load equally.I tend to believe this as "synthetic lubricants" developed for jet engines isn't even derived from petroleum...hense the molecular size is 100% equal. This also allows the use of lighter viscosity and still have superior load carrying capabilities.???? This oil is just as clean and more slippery after 5-6000 miles as the regular oil I used to use was at 3000 miles.Seal leak issues are non-existant and as if price should matter, it ends up being almost equal per year.I will go on record,though, and say that if your miles are all stop&go and/or cold weather where you never get up to temp,then use whatever you can get the best buy on(MFG. Recomended) and change it at 2-3000 miles or less.In tractors ...hobby/work ,drain water off bottom periodically,but nobody but you can decide your change intervals based on usage. You are the one using it!

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Dachshund

03-05-2006 06:03:30




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 Re: Motor Oil in reply to mtgummibear, 03-04-2006 09:58:30  
I use Wal-Mart Super-Tech in everything I own. Never had a bit of problem.



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jjohn

03-05-2006 05:25:57




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 Re: Motor Oil in reply to mtgummibear, 03-04-2006 09:58:30  
I haul motor oil and Cat is same as Mobil comes out of same tank. We haul Mopar, Ford, you name it just as long as specs are same it is ok. We also haul tractor hyd. they just put it in 5 gallon buckets different names. So needless to say change it often. I have well over 600,000 on my truck and change it at 10,000 not at 20,000 to 30,000 like they say and haven't had any down time yet [knock on wood].

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Mark - IN.

03-04-2006 18:54:20




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 Re: Motor Oil in reply to mtgummibear, 03-04-2006 09:58:30  
You know, today was at the auto parts place. They have a couple of those "Lucas" displays. The ones where have 4 nylon gears, and spin the one at the bottom and on the left side watch "just" oil travel up the gears from bottom to top as rotate the thing (probably 10 wt to skew the outcome). Then on the right side is oil with the Lucas additive (probably 50 wt to further skew...). Is as different as night and day. I don't know if is really good for the engine or not, or what would mean to frequency of oil changes. Watching it made me think two things, is as different as night and day, and anything that sticks to gears like that reminds me of STP. I only ever used STP in one application, and wasn't an engine. Had a '69 K20 Chevy with a slightly damaged gear in the trans, so instead of 90 weight, I used STP. Sure made a difference, but in freezing temperatures, until that stuff heated up and thinned out, going through the gears was like trying to move a stick through newly poured concrete. Took a whole lot of umph. Never should've sold that truck.

Mark

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KinIA

03-04-2006 13:49:13




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 Re: Motor Oil in reply to mtgummibear, 03-04-2006 09:58:30  
Link

See this web site....without data, we're just another opinion...



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MN Bob

03-04-2006 13:39:06




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 Re: Motor Oil in reply to mtgummibear, 03-04-2006 09:58:30  
CLW is right on. When I first started collecting and working on older tractors (mostly A & B JD stuff)a few years ago, I was stuck more often than not. I found this site and thanks to Clooney and John T, and others like them, I learned a lot. Just wish I could apprentice to guys like them. Or could have when younger would be better.



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CLW

03-04-2006 12:49:56




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 Re: Motor Oil in reply to mtgummibear, 03-04-2006 09:58:30  
The following is a reply to a question I ask about oil changes. (every 3000 miles or what the owners manual says) If you were on the Deere board we had a man, JD Clooney, who was the best and smartest I have every seen. This don't go to the heart of your question but I hope adds a little to the subject. Besides being a Deere collector he is an advanced engineer for GM.

"CLW, that’s an easy answer.. Just do what the owners manual tells you.. They put a lot of testing into those recommendations.. Now what I personally do is only change mine twice a year.. But I have a lot of vehicles & drive most less than 15,000 each.. My personal belief is time is more important than miles.. With few miles over a long time that means many short trips & many starts & warm ups.. With lots of miles over the same time period means long hi-way trips.. Personally I would rather see an hour meter on a vehicle than an odometer for oil change reasons.. Ever see industrial or farm equipment’s oil changed by miles?

Some new cars & trucks have an algorithm in the computer that uses # of cold starts, type of operation, number of idle & start cycles, hi-way speed & duration, length of time running hot or cold, etc. I have that system in one of my new cars.. I have changed the oil 3 times now without re-setting the oil change light & it finally came on at over a year & 18,000 mile.. Almost all the driving on that car is long duration hi-way though..

Your oil change interval REALLY depends on your driving conditions & type of driving & what type of loads you pull with it.. All cold weather short trips need frequent oil changes.. Long hi-way trips can go a long time.. Engine idling [like winter warm ups are killers also]..

Probably the best way is to have an oil sample analyzed every so often but that costs more than an oil change so might just as well change it as have it sampled..

Just wait until all the new cars & trucks have oil change monitor lights [not just the time vs miles ones like some have now] but acid sensors or real complicated algorithm systems.. I think a lot of people will get a real surprise on what is recommended vs what they are doing now.. "

Clooney

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John M

03-04-2006 12:30:50




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 Re: Motor Oil in reply to mtgummibear, 03-04-2006 09:58:30  
They are just as good as the name brands.WalMart doent have their own refinery,not do the big name auto parts stores,so as long as it meets the spec for the engine,run it.I run WalMarts brand of oil in everything except the wife car,she takes care of getting the oil changed in it since shes a home health nurse.



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Don Wadge

03-04-2006 10:16:25




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 Re: Motor Oil in reply to mtgummibear, 03-04-2006 09:58:30  
I've always felt that changing the oil was the more important part of that. I only change my filters spring and fall. In between I do regular oil changes. I've done this since the sixties. I always drive my vehicles until they have lots of miles and never had an engine failure. I've driven many of my vehicles to over 300,000km and were still running excellent and not useing oil when I got rid of them. The one I was most please with was a 1986 F250 with the 6.9 diesel. I drove it to 600,000km and was still running real nice but blew a head gasket. The rest of the truck was geting worn or mostly rusted out so I just retired it. I know there are people who will differ with this but it has served me well. I figure spend your money on a lower mileage oil change. If you keep your engine clean what's to filter.

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Jon Hagen

03-04-2006 12:05:37




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 Re: Motor Oil in reply to Don Wadge, 03-04-2006 10:16:25  
If the oil meets the API spec,it should do the job, One tidbit that I picked from a farm magazine oil story has served me well,Is to read the spec carefully on the oil container. An oil that EXCEEDS the spec is better than one that just meets the spec.
The arguement from JD oil sales literature is that the oil spec listed in the manual is a MINIMUM spec,and of coarse, the JD stuff is much better. Take that claim for what it is worth. The deal about if the jobber oil just meets or exceeds the spec should carry some weight in your decision.

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