self energizing regulator.

Thanks.

• Mad Electrical

Heres how I wire a GM 10SI Alternator and remember, it requires NEGATIVE GROUND !!!!! !

The big rear main output alternator terminal goes to the wire that used to be connected to the BAT terminal on the Voltage Regulator or Cutout Relay. HOWEVER if that wire wasnt already upgraded, when I convert from a Genny to an Alternator, I replace that wire with a 10 Gauge and it runs from the alternators main output up to the LOAD (NOT to battery/starter) side of the ammeter. I also replace/use 10 Gauge from the ammeters other SUPPLY terminal to the battery/starter.

The little side number 2F Voltage Sense terminal gets connected (use a short 14 jumper wire) right up to to and with the big side terminal just mentioned.

For the little 1R side Excitation terminal, run a 16 or so gauge wire from the ignition switches IGN (which is HOT ONLY when ignition is turned on) terminal and in series with it place a 10 ohm 5 watt current limiting resistor (dont really need that much wattage power rating, but they are heavy duty built and easy to wire). Then in the rare event the tractor continues to run cuz of alternator backfeed when the ignition is switched OFF, I add in series a 5 amp 50 PIV minimum Diode. The diode must be wired with negative cathode end to the alternator and positive anode end to the switch. Again, the ratings are not that exact but about any diode over a few amps and 50 volts or so works.

Dont forget to change the battery to negative ground and the coil needs to be wired so the negative goes to ground via the distributor points and the positive gets power from the ignition switch and you have to reverse ammeter leads also if your just now changing polarities.

Good luck Ol John T in Indiana

Then, jumper the #2 "voltage sense" terminal over to the large output stud.

Then, run a wire from the switched side of the ignition switch to a 1N5008 (or equivalent) diode, and then from the diode to the alternator's #1 "switched excite" terminal.

Run a wire, AT LEAST 10ga. from the alternator's large output stud to the ammeter, or battery side of the starter switch or starter solenoid.

This will likely be CHEAPER than going with the goofy one-wire system, will use a standard off-the-shelf Delco 10SI alternator, with no need to tear into it ro make internal "mods".

This setup will begin to charge at lower RPM's than the "one-wire" units, and is less likely to put a parasitic drain on the battery that will "kill" it during periods when the machine sits unused.

If the machine does not have an ignition switch to supply 12-Volts while the machine is running, you can use an oil pressure switch to send power to the diode only while the engine is running, and has oil pressure.

If you do not wish to use a diode, you can use an "idiot lamp" with a #194 lamp in it's place, or use a "side marker lamp" with a #194 lamp, mounted out of sight.

BobM, over on the Farmall Board, has graciously posted a series of diagrams of 12-Volt IH tractor conversions, which can, in general, be used on about ANY old machine.

He even has one or two with an oil pressure switch in the circuit.

His diagrams use the "idiot lights" instead of a diode, but, remember, the diode or the # 194 lamp are direct substitutes for each other. Use which ever appeals to you!

• BobM's most wonderful diagrams