fuel guage or sending unit check method

Very first is you gotta have hot battery voltage getting to the gauges input (NOT to sender) terminal when the switch is ON. Take a test lamp and place it on the gauge n turn on the switch n see if she lights up??? If not trace backwards for wiring from the switch to the gauge and/or some have a voltage pulser or regulator which supplies either lower or pulsed voltage to the gauge, but regardless theres gotta be power getting to the gauge for it to ever work.

Once you have voltage (even if pulsed or reduced) to the gauge, use a jumper to dead ground the gauges output (to tank/sender) terminal and she ought to deflect. If so then the problems NOT the gauge but EITHER the wire from the gauge to sender,,,,, ,,,,, ,or the sender is bad/open,,,,, ,,,,, ,,or the sender isnt getting a good ground. Some have a ground terminal on the gauges top while others may get the ground via the tanks frame. Use a jumper to try n ground the senders frame or if it has its own ground terminal ground it n see what happens.. If the gauge never deflects even with voltage on its input and a dead grounded output I suspect the gauge itself is bad/open.

If theres no voltage ever getting to the gauges input you may have a dealer check the parts book to see if it uses a gauge voltage suppy module or some other sort of voltage regulator or pulser etc to power the gauges.

Sorry Im not all that familair with newer generation tractors so take this with a grain of salt but it may be a start to isolate if its a bad gauge or a bad sender or sender ground.

John T

If the needle pegs, it's the sender unit.

If the needle doesn't move, it's the guage.

Donovan from Wisconsin

I say MOST because the after market look-a-like guages in my 1600 have 3 or 4 wires. It's a bit confusing at first how to hook them up but after calling the company I bought them from it was a snap.