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.020" Time spark to occur at TDC while cranking. Here is a more complete explanation.
Battery (distributor) ignition timing
First, make sure the timing is set correctly. Late timing (too small of a gap or incorrect setting) will act like too rich carburetor problems.
Timing should be set so the points open (set the gap first, .016" for battery ignition) when the timing pointer is between the double marks on the pulley; use the crank or turn the fan by hand (switch off) to locate the marks. With the switch off; use an ohmmeter or self powered test light to verify the point opening instant. This can be done with either #1 or #4 at TDC. Loosen the 2 distributor hold-down cap screws and rotate the body of the distributor in the direction of normal rotor travel until the points are closed (test light is on, ohmmeter reads very low ohms). Now rotate the distributor body backwards until the points JUST open; lock the cap screws and you are good to go. It is CRITICAL for the points have to be CLEAN and ADJUSTED first. If you have a 12 volt test light, turn on the switch after locating TDC and follow the same procedure. The light is on with points closed and off when the points open.
Needless to say, points, rotor, cap, & wires have to be in decent shape. Now start the engine & warm it up in NEUTRAL and BRAKES LOCKED; run at WOT (wide open throttle) and turn the high-speed adjusting screw in & out to find the "sweet spot" where the engine runs its fastest & smoothest. Turn this high-speed screw out an extra 1/2--3/4 turn for power. Idle the engine down & set the idle speed. Now turn the idle mixture screw in to richen, out to lean so the idle is smoothest (this is an AIR adjusting screw so works opposite of the main fuel screw on the bottom of the carb). Re-adjust the idle speed. Perform the carb adjusting procedure another time to be sure all mixtures are correct.
Don't forget that in the winter your air cleaner may cause richness due to cold oil in the cup or even ice blocking the air passage.
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