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Tractor Talk Discussion Forum

1951 Ford 8N

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RDunster

09-25-2007 18:52:52




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New tractor owner bought 8N to learn on. Having problem with putting tractor in gear or engaging the 3pt lift and PTO. After cranking the tractor with the clutch pushed down or engaged, attempting to shift into a forward gear or reverse, the gears grind. Once I finally get the tractor into gear it drives fine. If I push the clutch in and take the tractor out of gear, it will easily go back into gear without the grind. Sometimes when driving I will push in the clutch to stop, but the tractor does not come out of gear right away until the brake takes over, then the gears seem to disengage. Is there an adjustment that I need to make or do I have more serious problem?

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soundguy

09-26-2007 08:11:35




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 Re: 1951 Ford 8N in reply to RDunster, 09-25-2007 18:52:52  
I'm with Bob.. I've seen that on tractors with an oily clutch.. I have an 850 that will have the clutch stick if I leave it for more than 2 weeks.. so i keep it blocked when not in use. has been doing fine that way.

Soundguy



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Bob

09-25-2007 19:09:21




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 Re: 1951 Ford 8N in reply to RDunster, 09-25-2007 18:52:52  
There should be 3/4" "free-play" (movement of the clutch pedal before the throwout bearing contacts the clutch release fingers to begin releasing the clutch).

If you have about that much free-play, something else is the problem.

The clutch MAY be gummy and oil-soaked if the engine's rear main seal or the tranny's front input shaft seal are leaking. The linings on the clutch disc could be coming apart from age, or there could be moisture and rust or other debris in there making the clutch stick.

(There is a drain hole in the bottom of the clutch housing with a cotter key loosely fitted into it, to vibrate around, and keep the hole free of dirt. If this has become gummed up, oil and or water can accumualte in the clutch housing. Take a look under there to be sure the key is there, loose in the hole, and the drain hole is "open".)

Some folks have had success with using brake cleaner sprayed as well as possible on the clutch by using the (bent) "straw" on a can of "brake clean" inserted into the hole where the starter goes, spraying the backside of the flywheel.

Others even drill a small hole in the clutch housing, in line with the lined plate, and "hosing it down" with brake cleaner through there.

If neither of these options appeal to you, or work for you, for a proper repair the tractor will have to be split, and the clutch rebulit, repaired, or replaced, as needed.

For more information, surf over to the "N" Board on this site and ask any questions you may have, and/or search the archives to see what folks with similarproblems have done.

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