loader mounted plow-Part 2

I'm thinking I'm gonna make up some cylinder stops once I figure out how long to make them, and then I'll be able to disconnect the hoses for the dump and then run lines for angle instead. I can't just connect to the bottom pins and run a chain to the loader frame, because, for whatever reason, the cylinders are on the bottom instead of on top like every other loader I've ever seen.

I've got a lead on a 7 1/2 ft. plow for around $200, and once I get it I'll make up a frame to mount it to the loader, and then hook it up and give 'er a test run. I need angle because I can't just push the snow to the side like most, I have to push it down the driveway and pile it up. No room on the sides to push it otherwise I would.

Need to be able to angle it so I can control how much goes out either side.

If I get bored, I could probably make up some mounts so it can go on the front of one of our other tractors too...

Donovan from Wisconsin

Here is one I put on my 706 last year. Havent used it yet. I have way to many snow removal tools around here.

Here is what you are trying to do. This is a Western 9" plow. My advantage is I have the standard skid steer type quick tach and all I have to do is drop my bucket and attach plow. I also have extra hyd on loader arm to run my angle cylinders. The cylinders on the plow are only one way, but I have them hooked to a two way valve. It will work. When you pressure one cylinder the oil from the other cylinder is reutrned to resevoir.

What you need is a Selector valve to switch from bucket cyl to angle cyl. I will try to post a link.

• selector valve

--->Paul

Still in the planning stages.

Donovan from Wisconsin

A decent sub-frame would be much stronger than the loader arms and would allow more "push".

Of course the down-side is less piling height.

Just food-for-thought.

Nathaniel