Getting water line under/through foundation

Might be better use of time and money to buy 100 feet of 3/4 hose. The only ones I'm finding are for contractors and pretty pricey. Replacing 100 feet of 5/8 with 3/4 might help. I used to fear mowing over a hose but I was lazy Saturday and just did it and it didn't bother it at all I was cutting about 3 inches high.

--->Paul

If you have a galvanized tank, you will have to drill a hole through the foundation. Then, you get to dig a hole INSIDE the crawl space down to where you drilled. You can then come above and run the pipe wherever you need to go. Just remember, you will have to insulate and heat tape the pipe (if you live where it gets below freezing in winter).

Hope this helps,
Dale(MO)

I'm curious why it would make a difference whether you have a precharged tank? I can certainly see that you would have to be downstream of the pump, be it submersible or jet pump, but I don't see how the type of tank makes any difference.

When I put in my yard hydrants, I drilled through the cinder block basement wall, ran copper pipe through the wall and patched the holes with hydraulic cement. I put in two lines: hard water outside and soft water inside my shop. Running from the basement I was also able to put cutoff valves on each line in case there's a problem.

A couple other things regarding yard hydrants:

1) The last five feet or so of pipe need to be galvanized iron. Plastic is likely to break if you connect it directly to the hydrant (for example if you hit it with a vehicle).

2) Connect a few inches of copper tubing to the hydrant drain. That will reduce the chance that sand can get into the drain valve. Of course the hydrant needs to be set in pea gravel so it can drain properly.

I really like the Woodford "Iowa" hydrants, even though they're pricey. One nice feature is the built-in hook to hang a bucket on. (I don't have any idea why they call them "Iowa" hydrants, given Woodford is in Colorado. Whatever.)

As far as using galvanized pipe for the last few feet at the hydrant, the easiest thing is to use a "swing joint". It consists of 1 elbow turned on its side, a short nipple, then another elbow turned upward. It allows the hydrant to be moved in any direction without breaking the pipe. It SHOULD be used no matter what type of pipe is used. A swing joint is not quite as effective when using roll pipe (I always used Schedule 80 PVC), but is still a very good idea.

With the hydrant drain, instead of using sand, use 3/4"-1 1/2" gravel. I have always used 8-10 gallons of gravel around the hydrant. I have never had a problem.

The Woodford hydrant is the BEST brand on the market - hands down. They have been made exactly the same since 1929. I"ve sold hundreds of them myself and have never replaced one unless it was neglected (allowed to freeze, or was run over and bent).

Just my thoughts.
Third generation well driller/pump installer - been doing this for almost 20 years myself.

Hope this helps,
Dale(MO)