As rustred said, stuck rings from condensation is one thing. But standing water?? I might add that standing water causes a lot more damage. And that damage is seen by what they call as pitting. When you see pitting (small craters), you are seeing alot more damage to the sleeve than just a surface rust ring where the pistons rings were. In that case, you can just knock the surface rust off (break piston loose), and there really isn't much damage done to the sleeve.
But when there is pits, the damage to the sleeve is as deep as those pits are. You may have to hone or bore to the bottom of those pits, to get free ring travel. Otherwise they will catch on those pits (or on the edges of them), and cause a drag like you are experiencing. That said, by the time you hone those pits out (even if you can accomplish that), the inside diameter of the sleeve where the pits were, will now be likely way out of tolerance. If you try to limit your honing to the pitted area, your sleeve becomes wavey. That also is bad.
If you don't get the pits honed out (back smooth), oil from the rings (the oil ring) will remain within the pits and won't be scrapped off by the scrapper ring on the combustion stroke. The oil left in those pits will be burnt. If the diameter of sleeve gets out of wake (beyond tolerances) because of extensive honing, it's the same as having a worn out engine. That's when rings get sloppy, you start getting blow by, loss of compression, all that bad stuff you find in a wore out engine. It may be limited to this one bad cylinder, but the principle is still the same.
Those pits are caused from rust. That's how far the rust went. To the bottom of those pockets. Removing that rust from those pockets causes a void. Those void pockets, are what we call pits. Pits are bad, when they are in the side of a sleeve. Isn't that just the pits? LOL.
Sometimes when dealing with something like this, you got to determine what your end goal is. If you want a like new engine when done, you better go get yourself a new sleeve and piston set, and do a complete engine overhaul. But, somehow, I don't think that is what your end goal is. If it were me, I'd check into getting a used sleeve, rod, and piston from a salvage yard. Make sure that what you get (the sleeve, piston, rings, piston pin, rod, and rod cap), all come from the same cylinder and off the same parts tractor at whatever salvage yard you go to. You don't want that stuff to be all mismatched, and from different cylinders, and off of different parts tractors. The rod bearing? I'd use the same rod bearing off of the your rod that you got now. Keep the same rod bearing, that really should go back on the same crankshaft. Perhaps plastiguage it upon installation. The only way I'd even consider using the rod bearing from the salvage yard, is if you determine your rod bearing is bad, or it don't plastigauge out right. And even then, I'd have to determine the salvage yard bearing is good, and likewise plastic guage it upon installation.
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Today's Featured Article - Old Time Threshing - by Anthony West. A lovely harvest evening late September 1947, I was a school boy, like all school boys I loved harvest time. The golden corn ripens well and early, the stoking, stacking,.... the drawing in with the tractors and trailers and a few buck rakes thrown in, and possibly a heavy horse. It would be a great day for the collies and the terrier dogs, rats and mice would be at the bottom of the stacks so the dogs, would have a busy time hunting and killing, all the corn was gathered and ricked in what we c
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