Re: Super M Wiring Diagram

Posted by Phil Auten on March 05, 1999 at 05:31:33:

In Reply to: Super M Wiring Diagram posted by Greg Hyovalti on March 04, 1999 at 06:54:53:

This is an email I got from the antique tractor
list on this subject. Hope it's helpful.

Phil

Please respond to antique-tractor@atis.net
To: antique-tractor@atis.net
cc:
Subject: Cloth coated wire and old style wire ends

I have had several requests for where I got my supplies and how I made up the replacement wiring harness so I will post to the list.
The supplies came from "YnZ's Yesterdays Parts" in Redlands, CA.
Phone 909.798.1498 (sorry no 800#).
Call them And they will send you a catolog.
The first 18 pages are of made up antique auto harness (their business) the last four are the goodies to make the harnesses yourself.
The wire and other stuff is top of the line stuff. Terminals are the non-insulated solderless type and they sell the rubber sleeving to cover them with either cut to lenght of by the foot. They have the orginal rubber tape wrap
for the harness and have the cable, terminals, and boots to make up reproduction spark plug wires.
On the wire they have the auto company colors and traces. But not all the combs. that were made. For example I had a wire that was black with 3 white
traces - I ended up with a black wire with 4 yellow traces. So 100% point winner orginal NO, but it still looks darn nice.
Price. The wire is .50/ft for 10 gauge and .40/ft for 14 gauge, 10 ft min. order per size and color/trace. (Thats the two sizes I used). The
terminals ran ~ .25 - .30 each ( $5.00 min. order/ mix and match sizes-types).
When I removed the old harness I split the tape in several places to check the colors and see how the internal splice was done. In making up the new
one I had a hard time stretching the old wire to get all the bends straight to measure it so I added ~6" to the long ones to make up the
difference.
This way everything was long enough and where there was a couple ( and thats all ) inches extra I could tuck it a bit closer to the frame. On the terminals I crimped them and then put a drop or two of solder on the end. The rubber sleeve insulation I cut a generous 1/2" and that worked well. (One point, you MUST put the sleeve on the wire BEFORE the terminal. (-;= )
In wraping it with the rubber tape you can 'lock' the tape over itself and it will hold, however I cheated. I started back ~ 1" from where I wanted it to end and locked it with black electrical tape. Then wraped it out that inch and started back, I don't think anyone could ever tell even if they cared to look. Wraping it would by a chore by yourself but with two people it went rather quickly. One person holding the last wrap in place while placing the next and the othe person throwing the tape round and round the harness while keeping the tape straight and unkinked. I also used tape to hold the wire together in the harness form as we wraped it.
With the new harness, both the starter and generator gone thru, and making sure I had a good ground as I put it back together. I now have a 6 volt system that works great - just like it did when it was new.
I hope this answers most of the questions.

- Steve

Steve Sewell
Albany, Ohio USA
sewell@atis.net
sewell@ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu

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