Posted by ScottyHOMEy on March 16, 2009 at 07:01:59 from (70.105.234.113):
In Reply to: Farmall M Knock posted by cessnapilot3@gmail.com on March 15, 2009 at 20:43:51:
Just to add my vote to the tally . . .
That knock isn't going to go away on it's own, especially if the rod bearing diagnosis is correct.
Best case is you open it up soon, and get the crank turned down and new rod AND main bearings in it. (I agree with the idea of having the shop that turned it get the bearings for you -- saves ANY confusion.) Worst case it that it will blow and take out the side of your crankcase with it. In between, continuing to run it could chew up the journal on the crank so badly that there may not be enough metal left to turn and polish it, especially if it's been turned down before.
As for the rest of the list, pulling a plug wire to isolate a problem won't help in isolating the bearing. That's more for isolating spark and valve problems.
As for critical stuff, having your head and crankcase hot-tanked and magnafluxed will show up any cracks and their severity. Sounds like it would be worth the cost and effort in your case.
Radiator leaks can often be soldered, though not always. If your water pump is leaking at the shaft and it is put together anything like the pumps on Super As and Super Cs, you'll likely be ahead just replacing it. (Tools, press, language that your preacher might object to . . .) They're reparable, but it can be a bear to do it and do it right.
$$? Leaving those honkin' 38" rears out of the formula, you might figure $1000-$1200 on the motor. And to clarify something I read below(because I had to read it three times) the clutch, throwout bearing and pilot bushing will bear looking at while you've got it apart, and might be another $250-$300, not a whole $1500. (Have the machine shop that turns your crank deal with the pilot bushing while it's there.)
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