Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: H carb

Posted by RK Smith on March 31, 1999 at 15:47:23:

In Reply to: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: H carb posted by RK Smith on March 31, 1999 at 11:21:43:

Gene and Red - Here's a ps for when you rebuild the carb. The kit wil say "completely disassemble first and retain parts." That is not completely true. I recommend you examine all pieces in the kit before you remove everything. I suspect your kit won't have the little brass "air bleed" insert found mounted next to the "idle jet." So, don't dig into the air bleed first, because they may not have provided a replacement, but just soak it clean, blow it out, and then to test let the carb body dry, and drop a drop of gasoline on the brass fitting "pin hole" and look for it to "fan out" from the port that enters the throttle body. When you are sure it is clean and open, that's good enough. Also, the "drip hole" on the bottom of the carb has a filler material in it that is like sponge. You can judge whether or not you want to replace it. It just keeps dust from entering the hole that prevents condensation from building up and rusting out the bottom of the "air induction" assembly. Unless you suspect the float is incorrectly adjusted, **don't bend it at all** - It has probably been living there doing its job for all its life, - - but rather just gently remove it to get to the valve to remove and replace it. Strangely, I'm not sure the kit valve (a teflon tip on a wedge stem) is any better than the "caged beebee" that was my old valve, but I replaced it anyway, out of "fear" mostly. I replaced the choke and throttle shafts, but I don't think I would again. Clearly not, unless there was great wear in the shaft bodies where they pivot in their mountings. Your carbs may or may not have replaceable bushings that the shafts mount in, which may complicate that decision. Make sure the float doesn't wedge against the side of the bowl when finished. Flip the carb upside down and hear the "clink" when it seals and blow in it and notice you can't blow with it upside down and you can be pretty sure it is closing when the float rises. That all, hope this really helps you. BTW, either of you got any ideas on a small profile alternator that will fit the generator mounting area with the bonnet closed. Mine has been converted to 12v but I can't close the bonnet on the conversion alternator.

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