Re: Patrick Martin - 100 operating temperature

Posted by Roger Mills on March 26, 2007 at 05:37:22 from (71.37.118.105):

In Reply to: Patrick Martin - 100 operating temperature posted by Cedric on March 26, 2007 at 04:13:50:

Sid, I went through this with my A. I found out that the gauges are now all made by Rochester regardless of who you get them from. The top of the red zone is 240 which is about the same for the numbered gauges and only the face was changed. According to the book, the gasoline version of the gauge should indicate in but near the bottom of the green under normal load. The distillate version has an arrow near the top of the green and you use the shutters to warm it up to run at that temp. Obviously, the top of the green would still allow some room before water boiled, (not antifreeze mix). On an A, (all variants), the bulb for the gauge is in the lower inlet housing where the water has been cooled by the radiator so it will read MUCH cooler than at the top outlet. Just yesterday, I installed a new, (tested like yours), temperature gauge. I had replaced a head gasket and needed to heat cycle the engine to retorqe the head. I blocked 2/3 of the radiator with cardboard and ran it wide open, (in my case 2,000 rpm). The gauge came off the bottom pin when the top outlet temp was 160 degrees and reached the bottom of the cold band when the top was at 200 degrees, (took 2 hours to get there). By using an IR temp gun I found that when the top was 160 the bottom housing was 100 and at 200 the bottom was 140. With the location of bulb, and the nature of the 'Thermo-siphon' cooling, I think the gauge should have been at the bottom of the green when the top was 160 and top of the green at 200 on the top. There is about a 60 degree difference and I think the gauge ought to be calibrated for center scale at about 120 degrees and top of red at 160 or so. If you find someone who can re-calibrate these gauges please email me or post the source.

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