The alternator is a 63 amp. Between work, wife and kid, I havent gotten into anything else yet. I did start it again today. I guess I was hoping it would somehow cure itself. I need to get some readings on the battery. Ill let you know as soon as I do. Time is something I can"t seem to find enough of lately. By the ammeter, it kind of appears that the alternator is spinning too fast. This new one does have a little smaller pulley, but the tractor only turns 1600 rpms. With the amp draw, I think its in the distributor... a short or arcing maybe in the screw that runs through the side to the points. I did pull the coil wire off, and the draw goes away, coil was replaced too. I also unhooked the negative battery cable and clipped the test light to the cable, while touching the negative battery post. Nothing with the switch off, but pull the ignition switch the test light glows. Should the test light remain out in both the on-off position of the ignition switch? Or just in the off postion? Thinking the short was coming from the points, I rotated the engine allowing the points to open and close, and the light stayed on either way. But with the ignition switch off I"m good, nothing on the test light. Only with the ignition switch. Basically when doing a test like this, shouldn"t the test light stay off no matter what the ignition switch is doing? Otherwise there is a definate short? Thanks for all the help, and your patience. I wish I knew half as much as you guys. Janicholson, thanks for the tip on the meter, I"ll probably get a new one mainly because the one in it is original and hard to read due to past moisture.
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Tractor Noises - by Curtis Von Fange. Listening To Your Tractor : Part 3 - In this series we are continuing to learn the fine art of listening to our tractor in hopes of keeping it running longer. One particularly important facet is to hear and identify the particular noises that our
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