Re: McCormick Deering 10-20 Torque Specs

Posted by Bob Kerr on February 02, 2002 at 21:29:57 from (205.188.193.52):

In Reply to: McCormick Deering 10-20 Torque Specs posted by Will@ont.ca on January 30, 2002 at 22:07:00:

I don't think there were torque specs used. Just good and snug will be enough.I did use a torque wrench when I did my engine. I just pulled the wrech till it "felt about right" and then looked at the reading and tightened the rest of the bolts to that setting so they would be even. Tighten the head bolts starting from the "inside" out and alternate sides.Also tighten them down in stages, don't crank them down super tight the first time.It can help prevent warping, cracks,gasket problems. Be sure to retorque the head after it runs for a while. Get the valves adjusted close to where they need to be for the first firing and then after the head is retorqued readjust the valves to specs.I went back and rechecked my valves the 3rd time after I ran it for a few days. On the rods, be sure the rod moves forward and backward on the journal with the bump of a hammer handle. If the rod is too tight it will melt the babbit bearing right out of it and if it is too loose it will knock a bit.Put the cotter pins back in so the nuts wont back off since the bolts are not torqued to stretch and stay put from the "pull" of the bolt. The oil pan bolts just get snugged up but not too tight. Too tight will warp the pan flange and crush the gasket and it will leak.Some seepage over time is normal and to be expected, but you shouldn't see oil run down the pan sides when it runs.On pans , I just hold my 3/8" wrachet wrench up near the end close to the square drive side and give it a wrist-twist.Kind of like choking up on a bat. I would get a copy of the overhaul manual. It sure helped me when I rebuilt my 10-20.

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