Re: Sheet Metal Pitting

Posted by Bob Kerr on February 23, 2002 at 22:15:06 from (152.163.206.206):

In Reply to: Sheet Metal Pitting posted by Farmall-Nut on February 22, 2002 at 14:54:30:

Pits can be a real pain. what I do, if I just don't replace to part altogether,is after all of the rust is off, use regular grey primer, put it on in thin layers and let it dry for 3 weeks, sand it off and keep doing that until the pits are filled. If you hurry the drying time with infared heat lamps or fans,the primer will skin and leave solvents trapped , which come out a lot slower and will settle after you sand and the pits will keep showing up.I know some guys who paint Auburns and Duesenburgs, and they let primer sit for months before sanding. Takes them a few years to paint a car, but they are sure flawless when they are done and they use laqquer.Kind of overkill for a tractor, but letting the solvents all get out of the primer is what gets you a good smooth surface that will stay that way. I have seen a few paint jobs that looked good for a few weeks after they were done , but then the primer and paint settled and the pits showed back up in the color coat. The heavy filler primers used with a catalyist I have seen lots of color coat adheision problems with those, where the paint flakes off (sometimes in sheets) and you see the primer underneath. If you use lots of puttys, they will settle and also may cause the paint to crack later. Thick paint layers over metal cracks, thin is the way to go!Just look at tractors that were resprayed and not stripped down to the bare metal, seems like they all have places where the paint curls up.

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