Re: Time to rebuild the upper Bolster on H

Posted by Slappy on September 18, 2002 at 05:15:32 from (143.88.58.77):

In Reply to: Time to rebuild the upper Bolster on H posted by Kelly C on September 17, 2002 at 20:39:09:

Kelly,

The two tasks I found most difficult about rebuilding the bolster on my H were getting the old bushings out (one at the top, one at the bottom), and pressing in the bottom oil seal in the steering gear pot. Lots of people gave me ideas on how to get the bushings out but the one that worked for me was using a sawsall to cut a grove in the old bushing and then colapsing it. I worked for two days trying to carefully tap the bushings out; it took less than 20 minutes to get them out with a saw. Just be careful not to go too deep and cut into the casting.

The seal was a different story. I had to beat the heck out of the old one to get it out (it had probably been in there for 40 years). I then cut a piece of pine to size and tried to use that to tap in the new seal. I didn't work and I bent the seal when it wouldn't start evenly. Lots of people have used a lathe to turn a wooden seal deiver, but I don't have that option, so here is the solution I used. Cut about a 9" long piece of 1 1/4" PVC pipe square on both ends. put a 1 1/4" coupler on one end. Take a deep well socket that just fits through the center of the seal and wrap masking tape around its base to the point where the taped end will just fit tightly into the PVC coupler. Slide the seal over the socket and down onto the PVC. Push the whole thing up through the bottom of the bolster support casting until the edge of the seal just begins seat - if you look down from the top you will see the socket end and you can tell if your centered. Take a bottle jack and a flat piece of wood and use it to press the seal into place.

A couple of other points. 1) Be sure that the hole in the lower bushing lines up with your grease port on the front of the bolster casting. If you miss don't worry about it, just take out the grease zerk and use a drill to open a hole in the bushing. 2) Put the thrust bearing on before you paint the bolster. 3) I also added an extra 1/8" spacer between the regular spacer and the thrust bearing to make up for wear and tear over the last 60 years (I picked one up at ACE Hardware, if can't find one I've got an extra). 4) If you don't have a round sector gear that you can rotate so as to get to the new, unworn teeth, turn your bolster 90° to the left or right (the notch cut in the bolster will be on the right or left) and you can use the lower half of your sector gear. 5) Don't forget that the bolt with the tall head should go in the front left of the bolster as you face the radiator.

Overall, this was one of the more fun and easy jobs to do in my opinion and you get immediate improvements in stearing and ride. I'm getting ready to change the counter seals you describe so I'll probably be checking your website.

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