Re: Re: Re: 1950 C touch control question

Posted by ScottyNY on October 15, 2002 at 17:45:23 from (151.202.83.110):

In Reply to: Re: Re: 1950 C touch control question posted by Hugh MacKay on October 15, 2002 at 16:29:14:

Hi, Hugh. A quart a year isn't too bad unless it loses it early and stays low or you're like me and hate leaks. And I shouldn't think there'd be much difference between capacities of the pump and TC unit on the SA and the 130. May just be the SA is worn more. Mine is on a SuperC so I'm not sure how that unit fits onto a SA (i.e., what you have to take off to get it out, control rods, governor control rod, choke rod . . ) But that can be a pain in the neck. A little easier if you take the gas tank off. Once you've got it out, it's not bad but heavier than you'd think to look at it. Not much danger of knocking it off the bench. I'm assuming your leak is around the piston as opposed to the actuator valve that connects to the control rod. Either way, it's likely the O'ring that seals it. Do one, might as well do them all, eh? The head came off of mine hard--took a lot of encouragemnt to get a stout enough blade betweeen the block and head. Bottom didn't come off too bad. First order of business is to clean everything first, a lot of nooks and crannies but all rounded in the reservoir. Blow it out, put the carb or brake cleaner to it and blow it out some more. From the back (head end) basically what you see are a bunch of holes with solid cylinders in them. Take them out and remember which hole they came out of. A couple of them can be difficult and either air blown in behind them from holes you'll find inside the reservoir or a pen magnet will help get them out. Clean some more. Tolerances are close, but someone suggested that a Scotch-Brite pad is good for cleaning up any rough spots. I used one with no noticeable ill effects. New O-rings and sozzle the parts around good in HyTran as you put them back together. New gasket for the bottom and head. That's really about it, but there are a LOT of O-rings. You should make sure the pump is primed before starting the engine. I primed by hand, and then cranked it a minute's worth or more with the spark and gas off. You may need to readjust the control rods when you get it back in, but the manual explains that pretty well. It also has a few good tips that escape me just now. A handy book to have though (one of the small ones), if you decide to get into it. You may also want to but new boots on the pistons and actuators if the old ones are cracked. The originals were leather and may have cracked -- could even be the source of any grit that may have got to your O-rings in the first place. Let us know if you go for it!

Follow Ups:

• Re: Re: Re: Re: 1950 C touch control question Hugh MacKay 18:44:55 10/15/02 (2)
  • Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: 1950 C touch control question ScottyNY 20:18:38 10/15/02 (1)
    • Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: 1950 C touch control question Hugh MacKay 01:45:05 10/16/02 (0)

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