Re: 560: price and info

Posted by Mark NM on March 13, 2003 at 20:09:28 from (68.35.158.246):

In Reply to: 560: price and info posted by Deke on March 10, 2003 at 18:40:49:

Some of this may be old news. If not, it may be of help.

I am not a pro tractor mechanic or expert 'collector' but I have rebuilt/restored several tractors from junk/not running, and returning them to fully functional ranch work. This includes a Farmall 560. I've also restored several Case, JD, Massey, and Minneapolis Molines from early 40's through early 60's, including combines and loader/backhoes.

If the tractor looks like it was not taken care of, regardless of time 'out of service,' most likely it was not. A tractor can sit exposed to weather or barn dust for many years and not accumulate significant layers of oil, grease, and hydraulic fluid caked with dirt. I'm currently working on a late 40's Minneapolis Moline that has sat outdoors in dusty conditions for several years, yet the only oily dirt accumulation is near a single hydraulic leak. Everything else is clean and free from any oily residue.

I was recently told that the 560 is a 'functional collectible' because it is a great working tractor that is now at least 40 years old.

No ideas about current prices, but unless you have the time, talent, and tools, one in worn-out condition will probably cost more to repair than to purchase, as any old tractor can. Depends on its ultimate intended use. The 560 was one of the more sophisticated tractors in its day, and still provides lots of good functional work capability. All versions are rated at about 60 HP. They make great loader tractors if they have a wide front end. The power steering and multiple hydraulic valves are a big plus. There were various options for hydraulics and hitches, auto-adjust rear rims, wide/narrow front. These options can also seriously affect value. I'm interested in function, not parade looks, but a complete working tractor with original trim is easier to work on and is doubtless worth more, just like with classic cars. The one exception is safety equipment. I'd rather have a retrofit ROPS with seatbelt and survive a rollover, than to have folks comment at my funeral that my tractor was still "all original."

Pay attention to not only the hour meter but to any available maintenance records. Having the shop and operators manuals is a big plus, and it helps in determining the condition and options on the tractor.

Definitely check out the engine. Check cold starting first thing in the morning if possible, and bring a stethoscope or at least a steel tube to listen to the crankshaft and other internal components when starting cold when the oil has drained down into the pan. That is when you are most likely to find worn bearings, etc. Use a gauge to check compression, pull the plugs, generally make sure the engine is not worn out. If will be money well spent to have a competent mechanic make these assessments before the tractor is purchased. Many sellers are willing to cover some of the mechanic cost, especially if it results in a sale. If the mechanic tells you the tractor is shot, you will have saved much more than his fee. Often the seller will adjust price downward after a mechanic has given an opinion of mechanical condition.

The 560 was built to last for decades but if the oil and hydraulic fluid and filters were never changed they will still wear out prematurely.

If something needs fixing, get an accurate estimate before you buy. Distance from a competent/honest mechanic and/or parts dealer should also factor into the equation.

Diesels are great if they are running right, but they can be very expensive to repair, especially fuel injectors and pumps. Gas engines are probably most common and easiest to get parts for. Gas or diesel fuel systems can get full of gunk unless used regularly, and on a 40+ year old tractor that is likely to mean 'worn out.' Propane systems are kind of ugly and Ensign carb/regulator parts are extremely hard to find, but they keep the engine cleanest. I've had really good luck with old propane tractors so long as the carb/regulators are functional. I've currently got a 1963 560 propane that is utterly reliable, does not smoke at all, and runs very smooth through all engine speed ranges. As far as I know it has all original internal engine and carb parts.

The hydraulic system should function well under load. If possible, make a 'loaded test drive' part of the evaluation. After you get it home is no time to find out the hydraulics leak down. Listen for howling in the pump when the various valves are cycled, and check out the hydraulic fluid for water and other contaminants. Make sure the rockshaft bushings are not shot. The shock absorbing seats are also another problem area. I replaced mine with a mechanical shock absorbing heavy truck seat from a junkyard for $35.00.

I retrofitted mine with a ROPS and seat belt, and strongly suggest you do the same. It is most likely not possible to properly fit a seat belt to an original IH seat from this era. If anyone else has done so, please post photos.

A problem area is the steel hydraulic lines passing under the seat. These can fail under load due to corrosion, with catastrophic results. They can be replaced with braze-on fittings and conventional hydraulic lines, or it may be possible to braze in new solid steel lines. If the lines are pitted (and every 560 I have ever seen has had pitted hydraulic lines in this area) plan on getting them repaired/replaced BEFORE they spray oil into your ankle joint or maybe your eyes, at 2500 PSI. It nearly happened to me, this is no joke.

The early 560's had serious problems with the TA or Torque Assist. Bad enough that it was one of the earliest product recalls due to defects. Make sure this is fully functional, and that the TA shift lever stays put. A nonworking TA may be acceptable if you never need the extra gear range. It is kind of like having a 4WD truck and not having 4WD Hi or Lo. It may be OK if there is enough price reduction to take the loss of function. Same for the PTO. These are supposed to have a PTO shield, also.

Any seller claiming a tractor is rebuilt should have all the paperwork and receipts. Steam cleaning and fresh paint can cover up lots of sins. Someone who claims to have rebuilt the tractor should have a quick and ready knowledge of the type and volume of engine oil, hydraulic fluid, filters, tire pressure, etc., along with all the receipts to back up the work.

Last but not least, recognize that a 560 is a heavy machine. It is about double the size of a Ford 8N. It will require a hefty trailer rated to a minimum of 9000 pounds gross load with 3/4 ton axles and 10-ply tires behind at least a strong 3/4 ton or bigger truck to haul anywhere safely. If you roll a 560 onto a standard 7000-pound rated automobile hauling trailer with passenger car tires under it, behind a 1/2 ton truck, you will risk disaster.

Apologies for the long reply, but I don't know your level of knowledge or experience. I wish someone would have passed on a tenth of this stuff to me before I bought my first tractor. Good luck.

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