Re: Farmall Super A question

Posted by BIG JOHN on July 13, 2003 at 16:53:28 from (205.188.209.140):

In Reply to: Farmall Super A question posted by John Schell on July 13, 2003 at 15:14:42:

Sure would help if you can find someone who has done this before to show you what to do. But here goes:

First remove the hood, then the grill, now the raditor & fan. Now you will need to rig some way to support the tractor from the engine back because the entire front end has to come off.

Now that you have the tractor supported from the engine back it is time to remove the front end. Disconect the steering shaft from the upright suport, you do not need to remove the steering wheel. You will need some way to handle the front end when you take it loose (it is very heavy). I use a portable engine lift. Next remove the water outlet from the engine block. Now with the front end supported remove the 4 bolts that hold it to the engine and roll it out of the way. You will need to remove the govenor housing and now is a good time to do that.

Now you are down to the pully and ready to remove it next. Check for a set screw on the collar, some tractors had them but most don't and are only held on by the tite fit. You will now need to have a "split bearing puller" (about $20 or you can rent one). With this split bearing puller in place behind the pully you will need a two jaw gear puller to attach behind the split bearing puller to remove the pully.

Some times they will come right off but for me they always require quite a bit of heat from an Acetylene torch, a 5lb hammer and an impact wrench. A pair of welding gloves to deal with the heat are a must. Becareful not to let the pully drop off of the crank shaft on to concrete, the pully is cast and it will break if it lands on the outer edge of the V gtove. (Don't ask how I know this) If you had to use heat now is the time to take a break and let things cool off. An hour should do it.

If you haven't removed the govenor housing yet, you will have to do that now. Next remove the front gear cover from the engine and the half moon key from the crank shaft.

The seal comes out from the back of the front gear cover. Besure to replace it with the lip facing toward the engine. Before reinstalling the front gear cover clean and sand with emery cloth the crank shaft and the pully collar making them as smooth as possable. Hopefully you haven't removed the timing gears, if so make sure you have the timeing marks back in the right locations.

Now reinstall the front gear cover but do not tighten it, the bolts need to be in just enough to catch and leaves the front cover loose. With all of the surfaces as smooth as you can get them and some very light oil or diesel fuel for lube it is time to put the pully back on. Make sure to use a block of wood between the pully and your hammer when you are putting it back on other wise you will break the pully because it is cast iron.

When the pully is back on you can now tighten the front gear cover bolts. Before you reinstall the govenor & housing I would recomend that you replace the "thrust bearing" in the govenor.

Now you can reassemble your tractor in the reverse order that it came apart.

I'm sure that now after you have read this you can see why I recomend finding someone who has been there and done that.

GOOD LUCK

Follow Ups:

• Re: Re: Farmall Super A question John Schell 17:03:13 07/13/03 (1)
  • Re: Re: Re: Farmall Super A question Hugh MacKay 19:11:22 07/13/03 (0)

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