El Toro has a good point, I would do a bit of experimentation first. Step one, Check manifold tightness and leaks with propane (see Search For box to access archives). The manifold can also have an internal leak from exhaust to intake! If it is all tight and leak free: Richen the idle screw when it is beginning its warmup. (also the load screw) At idle, it should be set for best idle. When at high Idle, the load screw (lower larger) should be turned out until carbony black smoke appears, then turned in for clearing up the smoke. Running with a load will allow the best adjustment of the load screw, do it in 1/2 turn increments to get best power. W/O smoke. If the tractor is not using oil, it may not need a rebuild. If it has not been run hard, or had its valves adjusted, do the valve adjustment, then run it hard. JimN
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Lead Substitutes - by Mike Schordine. Lead was oriinally added to gasoline as an upper cylinder lubricant. It lubes the valves and seats. If you rebuild the motor, you could use hardened seats and valves, and unleaded fuel. But if your old tractor runs good, a simple lead substitute added to the gas is a perfectly reasonable solution. And, if you are like me, your tractor is under cover, but it sits outside. So with every temperature change, the humidity in the air collects in the fuel tank, in the form of water.
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