Re: 140 Brake replacement procedure

Posted by Haas on January 13, 2004 at 18:45:28 from (12.65.60.239):

In Reply to: 140 Brake replacement procedure posted by Fred on January 13, 2004 at 12:02:41:

I just went through this with one of my Shop Mules, which are made from an A. The A will be very similar to the 140. Dave is giving you good info. The pinion shafts that come out of the final drives are splined on the differential end and slide out when you remove the final drives. I had no difficulty getting them back in, but on the shop mule, both sides are short shafts. You will likely find grease and oil on the brake bands. While you are in there, replace the seals at both the transmission side and the final drive side. Replacing the seals is easy while you have the stuff apart. I had lots of "fun" because on the shop mules, the final drives are rotated forward and close to the transmission housing making it near impossible to get two of the bolts that attache the final drive to the transmission. Should be easier on the 140, as those two bolts would be on the bottom and easier to reach. I got my seals from IH, but they have National numbers on them which I wrote down, but I left that out in the barn. With those numbers you should be able to get the seals at NAPA or Motion Industies and save some money over the IH price. I'll try to remember to get those numbers and post back tomorrow. If you are going to replace the final drive seal, you will need a new gasket for the cover on the outside held on by 4 bolts. Also you will need a puller to remove the brake drum. Once be brake drum is off, remove that cover and the pinion gear, bearing and shaft are easily driven out with a block of wood. Then it's real easy to drive out the old seal and install the new one. And as a final note, be sure to not overfill your transmission with oil. Only fill up to the level plug on the LH side at the front. That's just high enough to wet the bearings with oil and avoids pressure on the seals. That was the problem with mine. The transmission was overfilled by about twice the amount of oil and of course it leaked past the seals onto the brakes. Even the final drives on mine were way over full. Do only one side at a time and make sure you block up the tractor very securely so it does not fall. 6 X 6 timbers work good for that. If transmission oil level is proper, you don't need to drain the transmission as when the side you are working is tilted up, it's enough to keep any oil from coming out. The wheels and final drives are heavy too. You'll need some lifting equipment to support the final drives. Don't try man handling them unless you have plenty of help.

Follow Ups:

Post A Followup Name: E-Mail: Subject: Re: Re: 140 Brake replacement procedure Comments: Optional Link URL: Link Title: Optional Image URL: Email Notification: If you check this box, email will be sent to you whenever someone replies to this message. Your email address must be entered above to receive notification. This notification will be cancelled automatically after 2 weeks.

TRACTOR PARTS	TRACTOR MANUALS

We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]