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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Board

Re: 1486 T/A out


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Posted by JJK on February 15, 2005 at 20:48:00 from (216.189.131.164):

In Reply to: 1486 T/A out posted by Spencer on February 15, 2005 at 17:56:36:

The bearing that I always check is the one on the pto gear, lot of times it gets loose and spins in the cage, and I recomend replacing both bearing and cage if this applies. If the splines on the quill gear have the dimple marks in them, replace it, and I've gone with the Ag Parts gear cause it comes with bearings in it for a few bucks less than IH's with no bearings. Most everything else I replace with IH parts. About the nut on the countershaft I personally don't like the Hy Capacity trick drilling and putting in the pin. I wrecked a countershaft one time when I didn't notice the pin right away. What I do is clean the threads with brake clean and use some hi strength loctite and tighten down the nut so it draws everything up tight and don't back off the nut. You don't want the spacers coming loose and spinning (seen this happen) cause there's one gear that will walk into the TA drum. I hope I don't get any nasty grams about me knocking somebodies method cause they've never had any problems or comebacks cause I don't either. As we say at work "Its your overhaul", so do it the way you want I guess. Other things I like to do in assy of the TA is take 3 long 3/8 studs, put 1 in the top hole in the bell housing, the other 2 in the quill gear housing, and you can slide the TA assy straight in using the studs to guide it in. Another is use medium strength loctite on all the 3/8 bolts in the bell housing. The 5 on the TA flange, the 3 on the pto gear cage(prevent from working loose), and especially the 4 on the bearing cap(these like to leak oil). Make sure the bolts and holes are clean of grease and oil before using loctite incase you didn't know. Some other things to check while your at this point are the shift forks, components in shift cover, cab mounts, TA cable, clutch booster, clutch linkage, rear engine seal, MCV, and MCV pump. Bad cab mounts and clutch linkage pivot bolted to the bell housing causes a jumpy clutch. Updating to Magnum cab mounts and a linkage kit the bolts to the cab eliminate this. This might be more than you care to know but I hope this helps you out.


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