1) Make sure your coil is matched to your battery voltage (6- or 12-volt). Distributor voltage is always 6-volt. If your tractor is 12-volt, you need a coil for a 12-volt system that has either an internal resitor to pull it down to 6, or uses an inline, external resistor to do that. If your tractor is 6-volt, and you have a 12-volt coil with a resistor (internal or external) you'll be choking your input voltage down considerably. 2) Make sure the small lead going to the points in your distributor is coming from the terminal on the coil that is marked with the same polarity as your ground. 3) Double check your point gap. It should be .020 when the points are resting on a high spot on the distributor cam. 4) Maybe you just left it out, but you didn't mention changing the condensor. Do that while you've got it open to check the points. Save the old one for a backup. It may not be bad and, unfortunately, a lot of new ones are no good right out of the box. 5) Check those wires out, either on the box or if you have the scrap ends you cut off, to see if they're copper wires. Mags are downright mulish about resistor wires, and battery ignitions on the old girls aren't real happy with them a lot of times. Copper is the way to go. My NAPA guy keeps one set each of 4-,6- and 8-wire copper sets on the shelf just for guys like us. 6) Double-check your made-up ends for continuity over the length of the wires, as well as the connections to the cap and coil.
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Tractor Noises - by Curtis Von Fange. Listening To Your Tractor : Part 3 - In this series we are continuing to learn the fine art of listening to our tractor in hopes of keeping it running longer. One particularly important facet is to hear and identify the particular noises that our
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