Re: Exhaust pipe H

Posted by Janicholson on July 19, 2005 at 12:30:13 from (66.173.50.19):

In Reply to: Re: Exhaust pipe H posted by Randy in NE on July 19, 2005 at 11:04:10:

Heat will be useful. Heating Cast iron is not a problem if done with the understanding that even heat is going to swell up all parts uniformly, and uneven heat can crack C.I.
Needed stuff Small rosebud tip for oxy/fuel torch (or cutting tip not using the blow trigger), A 2" pan for water, a piece of ~2" bar stock (or an old disposable socket that thick, a bench vice to hold the MFD for final removal, a pipe wrench and 3' pipe handle extender, luck (bushels)
I'd cut off the existing pipe about 2" from the joint, heat the manifold (at and 2-3" around the exhaust stack joint with oxy/gas torch till it is near red hot. Then, using gloves, I'd submerge about 1" of the existing pipe (no part of the cast should touch water, and there will be steam!)in the shallow pan of water to cool it. This causes the greatest difference in contraction and expansion possible. The cooling should only be done for 10-15 seconds so as not to cool the casting much. With haste and caution place the manifold in the bench vice and put the bar or socket or? inside the pipe to keep it from crushing when using the pipe wrench to unscrew the threads.
When going together use silver molybdenum disulfide anti-seize compound. NAPA sells it Permatex brand is good.
Good luck, and remember to watch out for the steam.
Jim Nicholson

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