Re: Question about Iron Guard paint

Posted by CNKS on October 04, 2005 at 12:10:41 from (204.249.178.138):

In Reply to: Re: Question about Iron Guard paint posted by Peabody on October 03, 2005 at 20:44:41:

Peabody --- I always give straight talk about hardener. I always say you MUST use a supplied air system with it. I was a 1st time painter about 4 years ago (unless you include the mess I made of a pickup in the early 80's). I read up on it before I ever started, and had my ducks lined up. If you use hardener USE A SUPPLIED AIR SYSTEM. Then you don't have to be afraid of it. --- I am "sensitized" to the isocyanates in hardener, likely because I spent years spraying herbicides in my previous job without wearing a mask. I cannot do even one squirt of iso containing paint without feeling the effects. I know beyond a shadow of a doubt what iso's can do. With a supplied air system, I will not get the effects, I do have to be cautious about reentering my painting area --- I use acrylic urethane, it has to have hardener, it won't cure without it. Synthetic enamels, acrylic modified synthetic enamel (IH 2150 and others) and acrylic enamel can be used either way. Hardener makes the paint cure faster. At least with acrylic urethane, any mistakes can be sanded out and either compounded and polished, or recoated the next day, depending on what you want to do. As to being scared of the stuff, the Paint and Bodywork Forum on this site is one of the few sites where the participants insist that a supplied air system be used, even for a one time painter. You are safe with supplied air systems because they are positive pressure, ie the air comes in and keeps the fumes out. With a cartridge mask you are breathing the fumes in, if the mask does not fit or if the cartridges aren't new, you are getting fumes. You will pay more for the supplied air system than the paint will cost.
That said -- I am not an expert painter. You and others may be able to get a better appearing finish with 2150 without hardener than I can get with PPG Omni Acrylic Urethane with hardener at $100 plus a gallon -- I haven't used the $2-300 stuff yet, but I am considering it. I like the way it flows out, I like the coverage, I like the easy to use primers and surfacers I use under it. I like to be able to add a second coat within 10-15 minutes of the previous one. I like the fact that it is almost impossible to get runs and sags with it, at least with a good HVLP gun. Painting is an integral part of the "restorations" I do. I don't do shortcuts. Every part is removed and taken to bare metal -- I am not bragging, I'm not saying my tractor looks better than yours, I'm simply stating the way I do things. I am retired, this is what I do in my retirement. I am not going to work several months on a tractor and put cheap paint on it, even if the stuff does "work" -- my tractors and I deserve better after all that work. Paint is only a fraction of the cost of the whole job anyway. I am sorry that RustyFarmall and others seem to take offense if I say there is better paint out there, and cannot understand that there are people willing to spend more money for products they consider better. I may have said the following statement earlier, I don't remember -- and if anyone wants to correct me please do so, along with explaining why. "Several people have used CIH 2150, moved up to acrylic urethane, and have never gone back to 2150. I have not heard of anyone who really wanted a good job that used acrylic urethane, then went back to 2150". But, anyone can do what they want, if they are happy with it, so am I.

Follow Ups:

• Re: Question about Iron Guard paint Peabody 13:11:58 10/04/05 (1)
  • Re: Question about Iron Guard paint CNKS 13:42:42 10/04/05 (0)

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