On advice from others here and pulling board, I put a heavier spring in mine. You might start with a new spring and go from there. I don't remember the spring number I used but I tried some different ones. You need to get one that had a turn or 2 less than the stock one. Also check adjustment and make sure the tube between the carb and governor is not inhibiting the movement of the shaft inside. I tinkered with mine for quite a while to get it right. I use it on a baler and a 12 foot hydroswing swather, the swather puts more load yet on it. I also changed the springs in the distributor so it advances more quickly and time it "by ear" instead of by marks. I went to electronic ignition because it seemed I couldn't keep the points adjusted right.
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Today's Featured Article - Fabrication (Who Me? Make it myself?) - by Chris Pratt. First of all, what are the reasons for not fabricatin your own parts? Most judgements on what should be purchased rather than fabricated stem from: Originality - If the tractor restoration is to be 100% original, it is likely that you should spend the time and money to locate the component in the used or New-old-stock market. Since this can be extremely difficult, you may want to fabricate the item or purchase a modern replacement temporarily, but eventually, you s
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