Jesse: Go for scotty's photos, the modifications he has made strenghten the whole setup. My blade is not factory, however until I braced it from the final drives, I was always breaking or bending blade frame. The one that bothered me the most was torque tube. My blade, like the factory blade was braced to the torque tube. One day plowing snow ground froze hard, blade hooked a rock frozen in soil. It sheared the 5/8" bolts fastening blade brace to torque tube. It hit hard enough one set of threads in torque tube will no longer hold a bolt I was in low gear but did have heavy corked ice chains on tractor.
My blade has been modified so it attaches to tractor in 4 places thus spreading out shock load on castings. It hooks to each final drive, with a cross member right under clutch housing, with that cross member bolted to clutch housing, then frame extends on to cultivtor mount just behind front axle. This is a one piece sub frame with blade push arms hinged on the bottom side, just ahead of clutch housing. It looks a wee bit like a bulldozer, but I'll guarentee no one will break blade or tractor. If he does, his ribs will be inverted and shape of steering wheel. Hard frozen ground is a fact of life up here, spring trips just don't cut it.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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