Well the item by item sequence is as follows (there is usually a exploded diagram in the kit) First take pictures all the way through to be sure it goes back together. Next purchase carb cleaner in a container to dip it into. A gallon size might be needed. and some spray carb cleaner with a little nozzle. Study the exploded view. caseih.com has parts exploded views on line. (wear goggles and chemical resistant gloves) Remove some of the varnish from the outside with the spray to make working on it easier. remove the screws holding the bowl to the body (make sure that any long screws are noted on a list as to their location). The gasket may be stuck, so use a breakoff blade utility knife or single sided razor blade to avoid tearing it into shreads. If the body or bowl (or any part looks bent), and cant be flattened, it is best considered toast. the bowl can be wiped out (if there is junk in it) then placed in the cleaner allong with the screws. Remove the float pin from the pivot end of the float, and place it in the claener. Remove the float and check it for fuel inside by shaking it. If it has been sitting it will probably not have any in it even if it has a hole. Look for Damage to the float including cracks and worn through spots or dents. (small dents are not an issue) Pull the needle out of the seat and compare it to the new one. It needs to be the same length and it is OK if it has a viton rubber tip. Unscrew the seat and compare it to the kit for thread compatibility, and gasket style. If the threads are the same and the installed length of the needle and seat combined are the same as the original, they can be different in appearance. remove all other slotted components, again comparing them to the kit, and sizing gaskets. check the shafts that control the throttle and choke for wear in the body of the carb if there is enough slop to allow the corner of a strip of notebook paper to enter the gap, the parts are worn enough to be rebushed at a carb repair shop. (not this discussion) If the shafts are nice, leave them alone in place. Remove all other components except those that are pressed in, or swedged (metal bent to hold it in) in. All fiber gaskets should be removed, and the inlet fitting (if any). Do not put any gaskets or non metal parts in the cleaner, but all else shall be dipped for 24 hrs. Remove and water rinse all parts, then blow them out with air. then use the carb spray to make sure passages are clean by using the nozzle to direct flow into the orifices. Reassemble the components being careful to follow the instructions. Adjust the float to the height specification (and drop limits) to assure correct mixture control. Usually the height is measured while upside down, and the drop while right side up. Some are measured from the gasket, some without. Reading is a good thing. Do not over tighten the screws. Use no gasket sealer on the parts, it is a nightrmare to repair the next time. use no teflon tape on parts, it gets into holes and is not needed. PTFE pipe dope, paste can be used sparingly. Good luck, be patient and do not force anything. JimN
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Today's Featured Article - The Cletrac General GG and the BF Avery A - A Bit of History - by Mike Ballash. This article is a summary of what I have gathered up from various sources on the Gletrac General GG and the B. F. Avery model A tractors. I am quite sure that most of it is accurate. The General GG was made by the Cleveland Tractor Company (Cletrac) of Cleveland, Ohio. Originally the company was called the Cleveland Motor Plow Company which began in 1912, then the Cleveland Tractor Company (1917) and finally Cletrac.
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