If you are doing a gravel drive that is 150' long twice a year, I would use mild steel stock 3/8"X3" if I was going to use it professionally, or quite often I would find a discarded county grader blade to use. They are made from high manganese steel and resist abrasion and are just for that purpose. Why used, is that when they get done with them they are just about the perfect dimensions for a back blade. Do not sharpen it like a mower blade, it should be beveled so that when it is on flat concrete attached to the tractor the front edge is touching and the back edge is about 1/8" in the air. this allows maximum support for the edge while allowing it to "hook" into the soil/gravel you are moving. JimN
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Today's Featured Article - Pitfalls of Tractor Engine Rebuilds - by Chris Pratt. The first pop after you have put the machine together with your own hands is exciting and pleasing. The whole experience can be marred if one moves too fast and makes too many assumptions that they can just use "as is" some parts they should be closely scrutinizing and possibly attended to. In such cases, rework makes what could have been a fun project turn into an irritant or even a nightmare. Minor Irritants To give you an example of an minor but irritating proble
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