Every one who has replied so far is leading you in the correct direction, so I will only add that simply "putting a kit in the carb" usually accomplishes very little. Take that carb apart again and examine it very thoroughly, Make double sure that ALL passages are open and totally free of crud. Examine that float and when you reinstall it, make sure to set both the float height and the float drop to exact specifications + or - 1/32nd of an inch. Also, before you reinstall that needle valve and seat, liberally spray both pieces with carb cleaner, and allow to dry. It seems that NEW needles and seats have a residue on them which I think is left from the manufacturing process, and that residue becomes quite sticky when exposed to gasoline. This will allow the needle to stick firmly in the seat, and then you will have very little or even NO gas flow.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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