Jayrod - Besides checking the wiring connections, here's couple more things you can try:
1 - With the engine running at full RPM and the lights on, temporarily ground the F terminal at the generator. If the ammeter now indicates charge it's time to replace the voltage regulator. (Or if your A still has a cutout, replace it with a voltage regulator)
2 - Assuming your A still has the original generator, it's output can be adjusted by changing the position of the 3rd brush inside the generator. Moving the 3rd brush closer to the closest fixed brush increases output. But leave a minimum of 2 commutator bars space between the fixed and the 3rd brushes...
Note - a good generator should be good for 13 - 15 amps or so at full speed.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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