Dear Mike, Use the cover with the best finish. The one in the picture with the galvanized pip in front of it is better than the other metal, just switch the meters from on to the other. There will be one wire coming from the amp meter and going to the fuse (on the switch), then to a switch terminal (may have no screw,just a tab of metal connecting the fuse) built in to the switch. It is power in. All other terminals with screws are output terminals. Each should conduct (be connected) to the power in when the knob is turned from one position to the next. There should be a wire wound resistor on the back on the switch between two terminals. this is the light dimming resistor, and measures in the area of 1.5 to 2 ohms across it. If you intend to put this back to correct police correct, and the generator is a three brush with cutout relay, then it needs a light switch that has 4 positions LHDB Low charge, High charge, Dim lights and bright lights. This switch will have more terminals, and it will have two resistors, and some terminals will be ground terminals to the body of the switch! Good luck, JimN
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Today's Featured Article - Memories of an IH Super A When I was ? up to 10, I worked on my Papaw's farm in Greeneville, TN every summer. As I grew older (7), it was the thrill of my day to ride or drive on the tractor. My Papaw had a 1954 IH Super A that he bought to replace a Cub. My Papaw raised "baccer" (tobacco) and corn with the Super A, but the fondest memory was of the sawmill. He owned a small sawmill for sawing "baccer" sticks. The Super A was the powerplant. When I was old enough (7 or 8), I would get up early and be dressed to
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