1930 Farmall Regular partially disassembled to fix leaks & some minor mechanical issues before painting
1961 Cub Cadet, just finishing a carburetor overhaul & need to start on some bodywork
A 1935 & a 1937 McCormick Deering W-30, both engines stuck and soaking, hoping to be able to make one good one out of the two
A 1950 McCormick Deering WD-6 needing some work on the injector pump and a coat of paint.
A 1956 Willys PU that I started on several years ago & never got very far. Needs some minor mechanical work, a little bit of body work, and paint. Hoping to move it into the shop before it snows & be able to get back to it this winter.
Getting power run to the shop. Having to start a generator every time I need more than a few lights or a hand tool is getting old.
Plus we're waiting on permits to start an addition to the house. Most of this will be done by a contractor, but I'll do as much as I have time for to help keep costs down.
Looks like I'll be busy for a few years. Unfortunately, my paying job tends to get in the way of doing what I'd like to do - hopefully can retire in five years or so.
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Today's Featured Article - Storing Your Tractor - by Staff. If your tractor is going to be stored for any length of time, a few precautionary measures are helpful in preserving various parts, also in avoiding future difficulty. Store tractor under cover. If impossible to place tractor under cover, be sure to cover air stack and exhaust pipe. Drain radiator and engine block. To avoid gum content collections, drain both fuel tanks and carburetor. Leave radiator and fuel caps slightly loose to protect gaskets. Block tractor up to remove weight from tires and to keep tires from contact with moist floor.
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1964 I-H 140 tractor with cultivators and sidedresser. Starts and runs good. Asking 2650. CALL RON AT 502-319-1952
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