Changing brake bands on a Farmall A is not an easy task. On the left side it is easier because the shaft is shorter that goes into the transmission, but the right shaft runs all the way through the casting under the seat. You don't have to drain the fluid out of the final drives to change the bands as they are beyond the brakes, but it depends on why your brakes have failed. Usually the final drive seal leaks and gets oil on the brake drums making them not work. On the left side, you can also get fluid from the transmission. You may want to consider changing these seals while you have it appart. I can't rememeber if the shafts going into the transmission are above or below the transmission fluid level, but you can check by looking at the level checking plug location. To remove the final drive assy (it is quite heavy) you need either some kind of a hoist or someone who is real strong as you need to unbolt the flange and then slide the splined drive shaft out of the transmission. It even worse trying to line it up and slide it back in when putting back together. It is best if you had a service manual to see how things fit together. Roger
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Earthmaster - by Staff. This tractor, manufactured by the Earthmaster Farm Equipment company in Burbank, California was made for only two years. The Model C came out in 1948 and was followed by the "CN" (narrow-width model), "CNH (narrow-width high-crop model), "CH" (high-crop), "D" and the "DH" (high-crop) in 1949. The main difference between the models was tire size, tractor width and cultivating height. The "D" series were about 20 inches wider overall than the
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