Len I've used three different approches to rust, grinding, blasting and electrolysis.
If the part is small enough or you hae a tank big enough, electrolysis is great. After cleanup you can prime and paint.
Blasting is great if you're set up for it. Leaves things shinier than electrolysis and usually just needs an etching primer to get going.
Grinding with a twisted wire brush winds up being my most common method, especially for spots. Drawbacks are that some existing paint is the very devil to get off (but you at least have a good roughed up surface for a new coat of a compatible paint to adhere to) and it doesn't always get all the rust completely out of deep pits. In the latter case I use Jasco Paint and Prep (others use Ospho) after the grinding, both of which are phosphoric acid solutions that convert rust and iron to iron phosphate, kind of like bluing a gun barrel. Great stuff, easy to use. Treat it like a coat of primer, scuff it up and apply whatever comes next.
One caution is not to leave any bare metal laying around without getting something on it for a primer, whether that's an actual primer or the first coat of your paint. It can get a flash coat of rust in just a few hours, and you'll have to go back over it before priming or painting. Once you've got the bare metal primed, you can decide whether a filling primer or a putty would be better for filling the pits.
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Today's Featured Article - The Cletrac General GG and the BF Avery A - A Bit of History - by Mike Ballash. This article is a summary of what I have gathered up from various sources on the Gletrac General GG and the B. F. Avery model A tractors. I am quite sure that most of it is accurate. The General GG was made by the Cleveland Tractor Company (Cletrac) of Cleveland, Ohio. Originally the company was called the Cleveland Motor Plow Company which began in 1912, then the Cleveland Tractor Company (1917) and finally Cletrac.
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