Sandblast them or sand them by hand, or use a fiber wheel on an electric drill. If rust is still in the pits use Picklex 20 or a similar cheaper product from Home Depot called Must for Rust, or some other protectant/converter. Those will convert or neutralize the rust. Then use body filler in the pits, sand smooth and prime with epoxy primer followed by a sandable surfacer. The epoxy gives a good bond to the metal, it is also waterproof. The sandable surfacer will fill any scratches caused by the other sanding procedure and leave a smooth surface to be top coated. Etch primer, although it can be used on old metal is not necessary because you have done the etching by sanding. Etch is mainly used by body shops on new metal that they do not wish to take the time to sand. Epoxy is the way to go. For the pieces you described it is the best primer there is.
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Kreem Brand Fuel Tank Liner - by Staff. This condition has occurred on a few machines that we have had and fortunately we were able to borrow the technique used at the local motorcycle shop. The product that we have used is called Kreem thouh there are others on the market, this one was recommended and available. This particular product is sold in three parts, a bottle of etch, dryer, and sealer. We were fortunate enough to start the process with stern warnings from those that had used this type of product before. The horror
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