Pat, Yearssssss ago I did some antique class pulling until I realized it took big bucks to compete and no one but me was actually stock grrrrrrrrrrrr. For sure you want that drawbar SHORT N UP CLOSE AND NOT WAYYYYYYYYYY BACK FROM THE TRACTOR. Then get the front n rear weight balanced to the point under a hard pull the front end just floats above the ground a tad to put the weights where it matters. Then use whatever gear (if rules permit) so you would run out of HP and traction at about the same time i.e. if geared too low she spins out but if too high she runs out of HP. The thing is, you probalby wont have the gear ratio you need, it will be somewhere between 1st and 2nd lol and you wont have the HP to run at the higher gear grrrrrrrrr
Also when pulling you dont wanna waste any precious HP on things OTHER THEN what turns the rear wheels DUH. Things like Generators and fans and water pumps and unused gears n hydraulics n PTO parts etc etc are alllllll horsepower robbers so eliminate as much as you can and utilize stored energy (big honkin battery that can also serve as front end ballast) where possible instead of the engines energy during the pull.
Run fresh clean water free gas and eliminate unneeded inlet air restrictions n have the carb set rich enough and have a good strong hot spark fer sure.
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Tractor Noises - by Curtis Von Fange. Listening To Your Tractor : Part 3 - In this series we are continuing to learn the fine art of listening to our tractor in hopes of keeping it running longer. One particularly important facet is to hear and identify the particular noises that our
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