Yep, one of the first things I looked at. Both belts are about right. Fan howls like it ought to, and the right play in a new belt off to the generator.
When I first started chasing this down (like fixing the ground connection) I made a point of double checking the connections to the back of the ammeter and ignition button, too, while I could get to them with the battery out.
I made small progress with each session. Thought I had it licked the last time, she charged high for a while, which would have made sense if I'd been running her down, and then settled into a 0-1 amp charge showing on the ammeter. A week later, she was all akimbo again.
Following up on that, today's work, the first time I'd dressed the points in the regulator, got the results I talked about below. 7-8-9 amps charge at 3/4 throtle with the lights off. Wouldn't drop back more than an amp or two during a brief test of turning on the lights, high or dim. Never did settle back down, though, to just a few amps with the lights off.
That's about the pint I saw her dropping off tot he discharge state, and found the genny so hot.
Like I said, I'll roll it over by hand and listen and feel for anything when I take it off, but she's gotta go to the shop. 8^( Will keep ya posted.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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